This file portion of www.watertownhistory.org website

 

What Every Woman Should Know

 

Written and contributed by Ben Feld

 

 

Table of Contents

 

 

Chapter            l           For Good Health                                              

 

                        2          Social Graces                                      

 

                        3          Dress                                                              

 

                        4          The Ideal Female Form                        

 

                        5          Thoughts While Sewing                        

 

                        6          How To                                               

 

                        7          Take My Advice                                   

 

                        8          Cosmetics                                           

 

                        9          Just Good Advice                                 

 

                        10        Take My Advice One Last Time                        

 

                        11        For Your Information

 

 

 

 

            The magazines and newspapers carried many articles of advice to women of all ages; articles purported to having been written by women although some carry with them a tone which may lead the reader to conclude it was actually written by a man.  In any event, we must remember that the editors invariably were men and it was they who determined which articles would be printed in their publication.

 

            Some of the advice was timeless:  “Don’t worry,”  “Don’t lay awake at night thinking of your shortcomings,” for instance. Other pieces of advice offered now seem hopelessly out of date:  “Drink milk and cream whenever you happen to want them.“  “Do not take more exercise than is absolutely necessary.”

 

 

 

The acceptance of the following pages of advice

is left to the discretion of the reader.

 

 

 

Chapter 1

FOR GOOD HEALTH

 

INTERESTING TO THE LADIES, LOOKING GLASSES.

 

As the ladies are proverbially fond of looking-glasses, they should be made acquainted with a fact, but little-known or attended to, that the beauty and truth of their reflected images very much depend upon the quality and color of the glass itself, which are easily detected by merely holding white paper edgeways to the glass; and just so much as the reflected paper varies in color from the paper applied, in the same proportions are their complexions apparently tinged or blackened by it.  Thus, many persons are continually imagining they “look ill,” and, perhaps, from this circumstance, really become so, from the habit of using a glass that thus unconsciously disfigures them.

                                                                                                                        1848

 

 

            It is singular that people will lay in bed these lovely mornings, and sleep away the best part of their lives.  You can form no idea how lovely the morning is, before the sun has made its appearance above the eastern hills -- how quiet the streets are, how beautiful the birds sing, apparently with the only intention of pleasing you:  what an hour for meditation!  Did you ever try it?  Of all the hours that God has given us in the day, none is so calculated to make a woman admire all around her -- admire herself -- admire her Maker -- as is this hour of “early morn.”

                                                                                                                        1852

 

 

 

From an article by Dr. Wm. F. Coale, in a Boston Medical and Surgical Journal:

 

HEALTH OF FEMALES

 

            The fact that an English woman lives half a century before she begins to wane while our females reach their prime mostly at little over half that age, and that another lustrum finds them on the decline, ought strongly to arrest our attention and induce us to examine whether we are right in attributing all this difference to climate, and whether we might not find in some error or habits of early life, at least a partial explanation of the disparity.

 

            To be brief, then, after this preface -- to state broadly our convictions -- we think that it is a radical error to making a difference between the physical training of a man-child before nature has made a difference in their physical being.  So long as there are muscles to develop:  the same organs of digestion and assimilation and to be stimulated the same apparatus of respiration to be strengthened so long should the means of doing this be the same in each sex.  A system of physical training so planned, should, we also hold, only be varied as functions come into play, which in the future development of the being, may require special care, and then we allow that to this training maybe modified -- but then only so far and at such times as the demand of the last may be paramount -- no longer and no further.  We cannot but believe that were the physical female under 12 years of age looked upon in these lights which we have placed her, and that were the course we have sketched out pursued in bringing her foreword to the uses of womanhood those used would be more properly performed, and with far less wear and pay or to the general system, then that which is the daily pain of almost every physician to witness, and which indeed often makes her a wreck long before she has served her ultimate physical use—the crowning office as a mother.

 

            We would go farther, and say that the same error is made in her moral training alas – and with the close connection in view between, this cannot be unimportant.  Her moral training should be such, that while it made her not less a woman, it should enable her to rise above the hundreds of arbitrary conventionalists that now, in every way fetter her – that would mould every thought and control every judgment -- that under the names of ”propriety,” “refinement,” “custom,” “fashion” exert an absolute tyranny over her from the cradle to the coffin.  This tyranny is broken through only in a few individual cases, and then by a rebellion which for want of the very moral training that originally permitted the oppression is so outré in its aspect as to expose her to the charge of unsexing handed to render her, if not repulsive, at least to the object of ridicule and sarcasm.  In short, we wish that woman should be taught to know her proprium, and to make herself fit to fill it, not as the antagonist in the slightest sense, but as the complement of man, the other half of a beautiful unit.  While the physical training we urge would never enable her to sing bass, the moral training would never fit her for the rostrum, the pulpit, or the hustings; but, on the contrary, it would enable her to see clearly her unfitness for these, and still further it would enable her to see as clearly a hundred duties around her, which are peculiarly hers as a woman, and the old and faithful performance of which would save her from that harking care, that the discontent, most often unrecognized by herself, that listlessness that now saps the moral, handed necessarily the physical vitality of hundreds of her sex – that wears them down in mind and body – that brings them sick headaches, crooked spines, flat chests, hysterias, premature age.

                                                                                                                        1853

 

 

RECEIPT FOR GOOD HEALTH AND LOOKS

 

For a clear complexion:

            Rise early

            Use plenty of fresh water

            Observe the strictest moderation in diet

            Take plenty of exercise in the open air

 

To give brilliancy to the eyes:

            Shut them early at night

            Open them early in the morning

            Let the mind be constantly intent on the exercise of benevolent feelings

 

To preserve the forehead from wrinkles:

            Cultivate contentment, calmness and a benign spirit

            Never indulge a murmuring and resentful, or a malevolent feeling

 

By constant adherence to the above simple rules, many females have preserved their attractions even to the age of fourscore years and upwards.

                                                                                                                        1855

 

 

To be sprightly, live rightly, eat lightly, rest nightly, very quietly and long.

                                                                                                                        1884

 

 

ADVICE TO YOUNG LADIES

 

Don’t worry

Don’t lay awake at night to think about your shortcomings

and other people’s sins

Don’t care violently for anyone

Hearts and consciences are opposed to rounded contours and shapely necks

Eat meats with fat on them,

Eat fish with white sauce

Eat potatoes, cornstarch, simple pudding, and ice creams

Wear warm, luxurious clothing, but be careful not to have it

so warm as to induce perspiration, for that would prove thinning

Drink milk and cream whenever you happen to want them

            If you don’t care for these nourishing drinks, cultivate a taste for them

            Avoid lemonade, lime juice and the like

Drink not tea and coffee, but cocoa, chocolate and milk

Spurn toast, especially if it be made of graham or gluten bread

Eat freshly made wheat bread, with butter and honey

Do not take more exercise than is absolutely essential to health

Take the air -- yes --, But let it be in a carriage, whenever you can,

or sitting on a sunny bench in the park

Violent exercise is the worst possible thing for the woman

who would fain grow plump.

                                                                                                1898

 

 

HEALTH and HAPPINESS

 

Don’t anticipate trouble.

 

Don’t gossip; have faith in God, in humanity and in yourself.

 

Don’t imagine every dark cloud you see is going to bring up a cyclone.

 

Fill every day brimful of sunshine for some one else, and much

of it will be reflected on you.

 

Make the best of what you possess; enjoy it; be happy today;

don’t put it off until next year.

 

Take a little rest now and then; enjoy your friends; don’t scold;

keep your thoughts pure.

 

Take a sponge bath every morning in cold water, and rub briskly

with a crash towel for ten minutes; take moderate exercise

and plenty of fresh air.

 

Cleanliness, purity, fresh air, faith and calm consideration are the

best of life-preservers.

                                                                                                WR  Dec. 12, 1903

 

 

 

 

Long before Martha Stewart, Miss Manners, or even Emily Post or Dorothy Dix appeared on the scene, guidance in the social graces was being offered freely and abundantly.  In the 1800’s, an eagerness to be socially correct was no less apparent than it had been at the time of the Revolution.  What were the ladies of note wearing?  How did they deport themselves?  What little mannerisms separated the ladies of the local community from the well-bred, high-toned lady of what was looked upon as “the elite”?  Much help in that field was available in the magazines and newspapers of the day. 

 

 

 

 

Chapter 2

SOCIAL GRACES

 

 

            Remember, ladies, that a lady with eyes that resemble peeled onions, and a nose as crooked as a politician’s creed, a chin like a hoe, and a mouth stretched from here to there and opening like a jack knife, will be sooner respected and beloved by all whose opinion is worth having, if she possesses a good heart and kind disposition, than if she were as beautiful as Milton’s Eve, with a cork-screw disposition and a heart of lead.

                                                                                                                        1850

 

            No trait of character is more valuable in a female than the possession of a sweet temper.  Home can never be made happy without it.  It is like the flowers that spring up in our pathway, reviving and cheering us.  Let a man go home at night, wearied and worn by the toils of the day and how soothing is a word dictated by a good disposition! It is as sunshine falling on his heart.  He is happy; the cares of life are forgotten.  A sweet temper has a soothing influence over the minds of the whole family.  Where it is found in the wife and mother, you observe kindness and love predominating over the natural feeling of bad hearts.  Smiles. kind words. And looks characterize the children, and peace and love have their dwelling there.  Study, then, to acquire a sweet temper.

 

            The above will apply to male, or female, and contribute much to the health and comfort of each.

                                                                                                                        1851

 

Girls, never ever allow a lover to have his arm around you. The papers daily show that thousands of our brightest young men are going to waist.

                                                                                                                        1884

 

            A pleasant entertainment for a few friends is called a “quotation party.” When the invitations are given the request accompanies them so that the recipient will come to the party with three quotations memorized.  When these quotations are given, the name of the author is to be given by any one of the company who can do so.  The one who first guesses or gives the name receives a favor, usually a flower; if this is not practicable a bit of narrow, bright ribbon, that can be tied in the button hole, is substituted.

                                                                                                                        1885

 

            We have heard it quite frequently remarked that if the young girls who are in the habit of flirting with the well-dressed strangers that occasionally visit the city, would just stop and think to what extent they are being criticized by spectators, and what questionable object these strangers have in view concerning them, they would readily see the errors of their actions and conduct themselves in a more lady-like manner.  These young girls who ignore the attentions of reputable resident young men, and amuse themselves by carrying on a flirtation with strangers, cannot possibly be well thought of.  Their intentions are perhaps innocent enough, but these strangers do not consider that, but point them out and tell, in a boastful way, what fun they had with this or that girl. and the young lady will soon be looked upon with suspicion.  There are, of course, a large number of excellent strangers that come to the city, but they do not form the acquaintance of young ladies by flirtation.  Girls, if you could only see yourselves as others see you, and to know how your actions are being criticized, you would soon abandon the desire of meeting the young travelers who have no honorable object in view.

                                                                                                                        1889

 

Don’t You Do It, Ladies

 

            Don’t stand at the door of a streetcar and worry some man near at

hand into giving you a seat when there are three empty seats

at the head of the car.  You all do it.

           

Don’t sit down in a car until space has been made for you.

           

Don’t get off a car with your back to the horses.  Men get a great deal of

fun out of your persistency in doing this.  But you are not

bound to amuse men.

           

Don’t leave your handkerchief and pocketbook in your lap when you

are riding in a streetcar.  Some man will pick them up for you

as you are passing out, but they will get muddy.

 

            Don’t wait until you get in front of a ticket-office window before taking

out your pocketbook.  The wives of the eight men who

are patiently waiting the opportunity to buy tickets are

wondering why they are so late home.

 

Don’t have your skirt badly fastened at the back so that your

underskirt becomes visible.  You can’t see this, and no

woman will ever tell you.

 

Don’t keep smoothing the wrinkles out of your waist.  A few wrinkles

will keep you from looking hideously smooth lake a fashion plate.

 

Don’t try to have a long waist.  For 3,000 years the artists -- the

professor and conservators of beauty -- have been saying that

a short waist is more beautiful.  At last please take the hint.

 

Don’t forget that no one who could possibly be considered an

authority ever said a small waist was beautiful.

 

Don’t wear shoes that are not at least three-quarters of an inch longer

than your feet.  Pretty feet are better than small feet.  And

besides, remember how nervous and peevish you are.

 

Don’t get hot and cross when your child whispers a little on the

ferryboat.  Let him howl a little.  Nobody will complain but

a few old maids and a stray bachelor, and they

are not worth considering.

 

Don’t forget to be punctual in keeping an appointment.  You never are,

but it is not too late to reform.

 

Don’t ridicule dress reform until you have found out what it is.

 

Don’t forget to keep to your right in going up and down stairways. 

You lose much time in shopping because you overlook this necessity.

 

Don’t be led by a pug dog unless you have no further interest in the

admiration of an honest man.

 

Don’t be so dreadfully cordial when you meet a woman you detest.

 

Don’t use the word ”gentleman” when “man” will do.  Every real

gentleman is willing to be called a man.

 

Don’t leave the kissing good-bye until the car has come to a full stop.

 

Don’t handle articles you have no intention of buying.

 

Don’t use the precious adjective “lovely” for every and any occasion.

 

Don’t make your husband a selfish brute by eternally waiting on him.

 

Don’t give yourself a questionable position in the world by living in

idleness on your husband’s labors.  No intelligent woman

is willing to be “supported.”

 

Don’t wait until you get to the piano to pull off your gloves when

you are asked to play.

 

Don’t choose a time when you have company to find fault with

your husband.  If you do, he will get even with you if it takes all winter.

 

If you wear a trailing skirt in the street, don’t claim that it is because

you rather like it.  Admit candidly that you haven’t the

pluck to defy an absurd fashion.

                                                                                                            1891

     

 

 

            Watertown has a phenomenon in the shape of a young lady who does not like candy or chew gum.  She is a pretty girl, too, and the fact that she does not chew gum places her one among a thousand.  Then there is the modest girl who does not like to have a newspaper reporter look at her, as she picks her way across a muddy crossing; and the girl who thinks it is all right for him to look at her if he wishes.  It is an indisputable fact that Watertown has a large number of remarkably pretty girls, and they are smart, able to teach school, keep house, make a good appearance on the street and many of them will be owners of rich farms, and excellent chances for young men who have no farms.

                                                                                                                        1892

 

 

            The fashionable accent is another important matter to be considered by the maid who desires to seem one of the society elect.  She must avoid a lisp unless she wishes to band herself a half-century behind the times.  The broad “a” of the Anglomaniac has also seen its best days.  The Southern drawl, with its apparent indifference to the existence of the average final syllable, is threadbare.  To be up-to-date from a vocal point of view it is necessary to cultivate a soft, low voice, and enunciation so distinct that occasionally you convey that the capital letter is at the end of the word, and a certain vivacity of utterance that throughout Europe is associated with the modern American girls.

                                                                                                                        1898

 

 

THE CINDERELLA GONGS

 

            The Philadelphia matron is responsible for a new fad, says the Philadelphia Inquirer.  This is the Cinderella gong.  All persons who are calling at the house are supposed to say “Good night” when the Cinderella rings.

 

            If a hostess is giving a party the gong is not rung until midnight, but everyone is expected to leave when it sounds.  It is not general intimation; it is really a sweet-voiced demand.

 

            Many a maiden has put a very pretty gong at the side of her fireplace in the drawing-room or sitting-room, and when the clock points to 10:30 p.m. she playful steps there and rings it.

 

            This Cinderella gong is very new, but it had its counterpart several years ago.  The charming mother of a popular young woman arranged a little clock in a wide velvet stand. On the white velvet the black lettering showed out strong in its paraphrasing of the well-known lines from “The Mikado”:

 

“From one little maid take the boys away, At ten o’clock, the old folks say.”

 

If a caller didn’t notice the lettering when he first came in he would be pretty sure to do so when the alarm went off at ten o’clock.

                                                                                                                        1899

 

 

 

            The official kiss is not exclusively a masculine prerogative.  There are times when court etiquette demand that women, too, shall kiss.  On the occasion of the Crown Prince of Greece’s wedding, the bride, Princess Sophia of Russia, the Kaiser’s sister, was obliged to bestow no fewer than 150 kisses.  The King of Greece received three kisses, so did his Queen, so did the Empress Fredrick and the King and Queen of Denmark and Kaiser William and the Empress, while all the princes and princesses present received one kiss apiece.

                                                                                                                        1899

 

 

 

WOMEN WORKERS ARE MORAL

 

These Statistics Go To Show Industry and Vice are not Congenial

 

          Carroll D. Wright, the eminent statistician, has been looking into condition of the workingwomen of the country, and arrives at the conclusion that work and immorality are widely disassociated.  In a recent paper, quotes the Chicago Chronicle on the subject he says:

 

         “The popular impression is that women wage-workers are not up to the standards prevalent under the old hand system of labor and woman’s entrance into the industrial field has lowered her moral standard, and the statements constantly made that low wages naturally compel women to supplement their earnings by an immoral life.  Those who know the circumstances best are convinced that this view is absolutely false and that the working-women of this or any other civilized country are upon as high a plane of purity as any class in the community.

 

          “It should be borne in mind that regular employment is conducive to regular living, and that regular employment does not as a rule harmonize with a life of immorality and intemperance or even crime.  An official investigation into the character, surroundings and conditions of working women in 22 of the large cities of the United States, comprehending information relating to 3866 fallen women, showed that a large proportion of them (1,555) came from housework and hotel work, the next largest (505) were from the ranks of seamstresses, dressmakers and employees of cloak and shirt factories, while 1,236, or 31.97 per cent of the entire number, came directly from their homes.”

                                                                                                                              1899

 

 

 

 

Chapter 3

DRESS

 

The thirst for information about the comings and goings of the setters of fashions in far away places had its negative side.  Men and women together joined in the complaint that what was considered fashionable the summer of one year was declared hopelessly out of date the next although still in perfect condition.

 

In that respect, things have definitely not improved

 

The “Skirt Expander” is the title of an article of female apparel, which is so constructed that the wearer can enlarge or diminish herself at pleasure.  All the lady has to do is blow herself up, and she is ready to see friends or take a promenade, join in a waltz or appear at church.  By this invention it appears bustles have vanished into thin air.

                                                                                                                        1847

 

            The eccentric dress-reformer, Dr. Mary Swalker, has just obtained a clerk-ship in the pension bureau.  A former secretary of the treasury once refused to give her a place in his department unless she resumed woman’s attire. Pantaloons were dearer to her than wealth, power and treasury position, and she promptly declined it on any such condition.  The commissioner of pensions has required no change in the cut of Dr. Mary’s garments.  She has been admitted, pantaloons and all.  Perhaps other women who are seeking positions in the Washington departments might have better success if they should put on trousers.

                                                                                                                        1882

 

            Square court trains are revived

            Fur-bordered turbans are very popular.

The jersey corset cover bids fair to replace those of cotton or linen.

Mouzaras tissue, an Indian fabric, is one of the season’s novelties. 

Cream lace is used with it.

Cheap kid gloves are a delusion and a snare, which the economical

woman will do well to shun.

Velvet exotics, superbly shaded, are the favorite garnitures for Parisian

visiting and reception bonnets.

Gloves of pale golden brown, ecru and tan are still worn with costumes

of every description and color. `

Gloves of white undressed kids reaching above the elbow are the costly

favorites for evening wear in Paris, at present.  They are, it is

needless to say, of cream white and not the ghastly chalk white

The ultra fashionable girl writes her letters in jet black ink, on paper

imitating exactly a fine hemstitched handkerchief; puts the sheet

into a large square envelope, with a hemstitched border, and

seals it with her own monogram in black wax

1885

 

 

 

            A ball dress of white satin, with stripes of salmon-covered velvet, is a triumph of the modiste’s art.  The peasant waist is plain and pointed. Around the neck and shoulders there is a puffing of white satin, covered with a drapery of salmon tulle, dotted with minute tassels of pink pearls.  The robe is trained and the front of the skirt is exquisitely draped with the beautiful pearl-covered salmon tulle.

                                                                                                                        1885

 

 

            Many slender ladies follow the fashions set by Sarah Bernhardt, and have their gloves reach nearly to the shoulders, pushing them down to the elbow and allowing the extra fullness to wrinkle over the arm.  By some this is considered the height of fashion.  There are many other, however, who dislike the fashion as heatedly as when it was first introduced.

                                                                                                                        1887

 

 

            Two distinct sorts of dresses were worn at the great Centennial ball.  One consisted of new designs, either direct from Paris, or wrought out by New York makers fresh from Parisian models.  The other was a revival in fabric, if not in shape of the fashion of a hundred years ago.  A first-rate illustration of the former class was the toilet of Mrs. William Waldorf Astor.  This lady’s mother-in-law, Mrs. William Astor, arrived from Paris within a week of the ball and brought brand new gowns for herself and several other ladies.  The one worn by the younger Mrs. Astor had been so accurately constructed and carefully fitted to a mechanical form of the customer kept in the establishment of Worth for such purposes that not the slightest alteration was required after its arrival.  The materials were white satin and lace.  There was a richness of fabric and a conformity to such outlines Worth had prescribed for the spring and ensuing summer in evening dress.  The only novelty about it is the shape of the sleeve, which reaches not quite to the elbow and is composed altogether of loose lace.  The dress which Mrs. William Astor brought for her own wearing had a full train and was composed of white satin, hand-embroidered with silver filigree and covered with beautiful flowers, leaves and vines in delicate shades.  The sleeves were short, and the bodice, of the same material, was cut low.  The petticoat, also of white satin, was richly embroidered.  Mrs. Astor wore all her diamonds -- some $250,000 worth, it is said.  They included a stomacher of 12 rows of glittering gems, and triple necklace and tiara of diamond stars.  Another of Mrs. Astor’s personal importation was worn by Mrs. Coleman-Drayton.  It was of heavy white satin, with silver and pearl embroider.  The corsage was cut remarkably low to permit the wearing of Mrs. Drayton’s sapphires.  The entire front of the corsage was covered with sapphires and pearls.  She wore similar gems at her throat and in her hair.

 

 

            A granddaughter of the late William H. Vanderbilt, Mrs. Louise Shepard, had an heirloom piece of brocade satin cut up into revers of her bodice and a lengthwise section of her skirt, the rest of the dress being made of blue satin.  Her hair hung down in a braided form.  That is a new thing for young girls.

                                                                                                            1889

 

 

 

            A popular model for autumn costumes used by modistes has a princess coat and skirt of serge, homespun, tweed or camel’s hair, with a silk blouse for the house, fitted over a heavily-toned lining, but rather full and seamless of itself, excepting the seams under the arms.  The bell skirt is, for instance, of ecru, moss green, or pale brown cheviot, with ruche of green velvet at its hem.  The blouse is of pale brown silk with a plaited ruche of silk going around the neck and down the front.  The jacket is of cheviot like the skirt, lined with silk like the blouse, and this jacket fits very snuggly in the back and on the sides, and is frequently belted and finished with a flat Watteau plait in the back.  Odd-looking princess coats on French models are cut out low in the neck, front and back, with an inserted guimpe-like top of gathered velvet or heavy surah or brocade.  The forearm of the sleeves matches this guimpe in fabric and trimming.

                                                                                                                        1892

 

 

Earrings are no longer fashionable, and the best dressed women appear now at the opera without even the solitaire pearl or turquoise screw which was the gradual abandonment of the ornamental earbobs.

                                                                                                                        1892

 

 

            Perfumed garters are among the luxurious accessories by which the aesthetic girl shows she is more daintily clad than most folks.  Possibly she has several pairs, being careful to wear yellow ones with black hosiery and black ones with tan.  These garters are made from watered ribbon about an inch and a half wide and solid silver buckles if just the garter is worn alone, or both buckles and garter clasps if a supporter is preferred.  The ribbon is doubled over a layer of cotton with sachet powder, and the wearer if very fastidious, may have her name engraved on the silver buckle, so if she should lose it there may be some chance of its return. Bridal garters must be made of white frilled elastic with silver or even jeweled buckles and knots of real lace.

                                                                                                                        1894

 

 

            Mrs. John A. Logan does not like bloomers and she has her opinions concerning the new woman.  “In the first place,” said she in response to a query as to what she thought of the new woman, “I think the appellation is offensive.  If by the new woman is meant those, either young or old, who have laid aside all restraints in indulging in the sport, and I might say dissipations, supposed to be the prorogation of man, not the least is cigarette smoking and kindred vices, I am sorry that her day has come.  If on the other hand is meant the intelligent, cultured, womanly woman, who has kept abreast of the times and has taken advantage of the exceptionally fine opportunities affording American woman of participating in everything that tends to broaden the field of her usefulness and develop her intellectual powers, without doing violence to her heart or lessening her love of home and family, I say all hail the new woman.

 

            I passed through the park on the south side of Chicago recently while a bicycle meet was at its height.  I had never seen such a sight before in all my life or had greater occasion to blush for the modesty of American girls.  Some were dressed properly and becomingly, while others appeared in garments they were pleased to call bicycle suits that were simply disgusting to any man or woman.”

                                                                                                                        1895

 

 

Lawrence University (Appleton) has abjured bloomers.  No formal meeting of the women students resulted from this announcement, but the teacher of Delsarte who took up her work in the school this fall, made the first suggestion of the doubtful value of athletic training for women and, inasmuch as the suggestion involved a proposed change of costume from the one which had prevailed before, it was welcomed by the girls of the school.  Miss Graham says the live girl will get all the training of an outdoor nature that she needs without bringing in a need for muscular training, so she had introduced a system which trains a prospective home girl.  The new costume is one of a flaring skirt and sailor neck blouse and has taken the fancy of the girls.

1898

 

 

            The fashion for the fall and winter runs to bows, whereupon the Chatterer of the Boston Herald remarks:  “Happy the girl with the long neck.  It takes a giraffe’s to carry off the new bowy structures.  There is a resort of an arrangement to set above an oval face, from a wisp of white tulle, tied tightly around, with a big bow at the back -- and mind, this is like Beau Brummel’s neckties, used but once -- and fur neckties!  Yes, fur frills and bows, if you please, and never mind the sore throats they may bring, as long as those cozy sable tails are becoming.  I know several young doctors who will be charmed to hear about the fur necklace.”

                                                                                                                        1898

 

 

            My lady’s slipper sees a very radical change this summer.  It is no more plain and unadorned; no longer does a simple little bow or unobtrusive rosette ornament it.  Instead, the slipper is a very gorgeous affair.  It glistens both by sunlight and the gleam of gas or electricity, for it is a jeweled slipper, and, oftener than otherwise, elaborately jeweled.  The style is to have these slipper jewels match the pin or necklace you are wearing, both in the gems themselves and in the setting.  When fantastic and curious designs are worn, in oddly finished gold, the effect is exceedingly picturesque and effective.  Rhinestones are to be favorite slipper ornaments of the summer, diamonds used to twinkle perilously at one’s feet.

                                                                                                                        1898

 

 

            The latest Parisian “dress” sensation is the “Divorce” costume, which, as its name implies, is a combination of two sharply contrasting colors, such as not many seasons ago were considered quite impossible in a costume.  The combinations are decidedly bizarre but are credited with great success.  A costume in such a combination suitable for this intermediate season is of nut-brown and Hortense colored silk.  “Devant” of nut brown silk is formed of two deep flounces, the back of the skirt is of Hortense silk, as is also the jaunty little jacket, which is arranged in the front in a Marie Antoinette fichu, the opening in the neck filled in with a pinked ruffle of nut-brown silk.  Another very striking costume has a redingote of terra cotta armure, opening over a mastic bengaline underskirt; the waist, belt and edge of the skirt are trimmed with rich black silk and jet embroidery.  The foulard blouses in gay designs and variety of make are greatly favored by young girls.  They are both practical and becoming, and can be worn with the simplest skirt.

                                                                                                                        1899

 

 

            A review of the fashions reveals the fact that the older a thing is the more fashionable it is likely to be.  Most society women, whose knowledge of and acquaintance with Dame Fashion is not of recent date, will tacitly agree with this statement, and the younger members of fashionable society need only rummage in the old forgotten trunk, stowed away in an out-of the-way corner, and they will find dresses worn long ago which might, with a little furbishing up, do duty as novel and unique Empire gowns.  The choicest pieces of grandmother’s store are the originals from which are copied the handsome gowns which make up the fashionable girl’s wardrobe.  Gowns of all styles and of all ages are worn.  Even the plainest dress with but few artistic touches can be made into a quaint and fashionable garment. At a recent reception held by a prominent woman’s club some curious studies in dress could have been made. Most of the slender women of literary pursuits wore the classic Grecian raiment.  Those on pleasure bent were attired in the most approved and correct Empire costume, and those who were there on business “pure and simple” wore strictly tailor-made garments, yet the one woman who was dressed in soft black silk, with a frill of creamy lace at her throat, seemed not out of place in this fanciful but earnest gathering.  Every style is allowable if pretty and becoming, and a wide field is given woman in which to exercise her own individuality.  With taste and ingenuity she can slightly modify for change any prevailing style, making it becoming and peculiar to herself.

                                                                                                                        1899

 

 

Parasols are one of the latest dictates to fashion.

 

The large woman never chooses plaids for her spring costume.

 

            The most stylish train may sometimes hide a pair of shoes with crooked heels.

                                                                                                                        1899

 

 

Just a short walk through any art museum will bring to realization that the concept of what measurements go to make up the ideal feminine figure has changed enormously through the centuries.  What was once considered the epitome of feminine beauty differs greatly from what is held to be the ideal figure of today.

 

But who can say what are the unarguable dimensions of a body?  Perhaps the only acceptable attitude, in that respect, was that of Abraham Lincoln who, when queried about how long a person’s legs should be, responded, “Long enough to reach from the body to the floor.”

 

Ultimately, most accept the old proverb:  “Beauty is in the eye of the beholder”

 

 

Chapter 4

THE IDEAL FEMALE FORM

 

 

            Headly, in his letters from Italy, has the following paragraph on an interesting subject, which we extract for the benefit of our fair readers as have not seen his work:

 

            ”In form, the Italians excel us.  Larger and fuller, they naturally acquire a finer gait and bearing.  It is astonishing that our ladies should persist in that ridiculous notion that a small waist is, and per-necessity, must be beautiful.  Why, many an Italian lady would cry in vexation, if she possessed such a waist as some of our ladies acquire only by the longest, painfullest process.  I have sought the reason for this difference, and can see no other only that the Italians haves their glorious statuary continually before them as models, and hence endeavor to assimilate to them; whereas our fashionables have no models, except those French stuffed figures in windows of milliner shops.  Why, if an artist should presume to make a statue, with the shape that seems to be regarded with us as the perfection of harmonious proportion, he would be laughed out of the city.  It is a standing objection against the taste of our women the world over, that they will practically assert that a French milliner understands how they should be made, better than nature herself.”

                                                                                                                        1847

 

 

            A London anatomist is authority for the statement that the ideal foot should be the length of the ulna, a bone in the forearm, which extends from a protuberance in the outer portion of the wrist to the elbow.  Of course, the ulna is longer in tall people, and to be graceful the foot must be also.

 

            Many people may be surprised that the foot should be as long as the forearm, and might be inclined to dispute the fact unless proved by demonstration.  But so it is in the perfectly formed woman.

                                                                                                                        1899

 

 

“I find great difficulty getting a model with good arms,” said a well-known sculptor recently.  “It is astonishing how few women there are with arms that conform to the standard.  A perfect arm, measured from the wrist joint to the armpit, should be twice the length of the head.  The upper part of the arm should be large, full, and well rounded.  There should be a dimple at the elbow. The forearm must not be too flat, not nearly so flat as a man’s, for instance.

 

            “From a well-molded shoulder the whole arm should taper in long, graceful curves to a well-rounded wrist.  It is better to have an arm that harmonizes, even if the parts do not conform to the generally accepted lines.  For instance, a full, round upper arm which is joined to a flat or thin forearm has a very bad effect.  Perhaps it is only a little worse, however, than a graceful, well-molded forearm tacked on to a thin, scrawny upper arm.

 

            “Correctness of form is not the only thing necessary for a good arm.  The owner must possess the power of expression with her arm.  American women are deficient in this as a rule.  Those nationalities which show the most expression in their arms are Spanish, French and Italian.  The warmest admirers of Sara Bernhardt would not claim that she had beautiful arms, yet no one can say that the divine Sara ever appears ungainly in consequence.  Much more lies in the faculty of arm expression than is generally supposed.”

                                                                                                                        1899

 

 

FOR A LOVELY VOICE

The Following Pastes and Rules will Make One

 

            Like anything else the voice can be trained and modeled with a little care.  One should never scream, shriek or even raise the voice above its natural pitch, and when singing should avoid straining the vocal chords, which, when once injured, never regain their softness.  Here again I must caution my fair readers against the exaggerated use of tobacco, alcoholic drinks, highly spiced food, etc., for their effect on the voice is disastrous, says a famous opera singer.

 

            Plenty of milk, buttermilk, raw eggs, lemonade and occasionally a mouthful of hot water have a beneficial effect on the voice.  Chickweed tea cures hoarseness and so does an infusion of plantain leaves and elder blossoms.

 

            In the Orient a wonderful paste is prepared from the pulp of the apricot and the fig, which marvelously softens and sweetens the voice.  The fruit is peeled and slowly cooked with an equal quantity of sugar until reduced to thick syrup, when it is poured into flat pine boxes and allowed to dry in the sun.  A few pieces of this paste eaten two or three times a day are said to cure all the small troubles of the throat and lungs -- cankers, colds, etc.

 

            Another, and it is a very ancient remedy for the same complaints, is to slice some raw carrots into a deep plate or dish and to thickly cover them with fine granulated sugar.  Put the dish on ice for three hours, when you will find that all the juice of the carrots has turned the sugars into delicious syrup, a spoonful of which is to be taken at a time.

 

 

The Female Bust

 

            I have been asked what the size of a grown female’s bust should be. Some say the difference between the waist and underarms should be ten inches.  I think four or five inches at the outside measure.  The natural size is what is wanted, not one distorted with corsets or squeezings. 

 

            In order to decide this question two women physicians have been consulted on the subject.  Mrs. Mary Putnam Jacobi says: 

 

            “There is no fixed proportion between the size of the bust and the size of the waist.  Still less can there be any fixed measurement for either waist or bust, seeing that this must vary with the height of the individual and with other circumstances.  The most general rule about the typical female figure is that the breadth of the shoulders should correspond to the breadth of the hips, while in the man the shoulders are much broader than the hips.  The size of the waist varies not only with the expansion of the lower part of the chest, but also with the development of the muscles and the amount of fat upon them.

 

            “The test of tight lacing is not the absolute size of the waist, but the degree of compression of the soft parts needed in order to allow the corset or dress to fasten.  When there is no compression the corset should fasten easily in the middle.  But, naturally, the corset cannot be fastened in the middle until the top has been fastened.  It is then always too tight. 

 

            “Undeveloped chests and waists are not always due to compression of clothing, but to lack of systematic development by gymnastics during the growing period -- that is, from ten to eighteen.  It is precisely then that corsets are most dangerous and precisely then mothers apply them to ‘form and figure.’  If not worn before twenty-five corsets may be worn after with impunity.”

 

            Dr. Mary E. Gage said that her attention has never been called to the point in question, as the proportionate size of a woman measured under her arms and around her waist has nothing to do with her health. 

           

            “But,” said she,” I should give as my opinion that ten inches is nearer the proportionate difference than four or five.”

 

            Then to prove that she was right, she kindly took the trouble to measure four women on the spot.  In two instances there was a difference of eight inches between the waist and bust measure.  In the third there was nine and in the fourth ten.  All the women were well proportioned.  Afterward the measure of a woman was taken who had never worn a corset in her life, and the difference between the two points were barely six inches.

 

 

            Dr. Gage brought up an argument in favor of her own decision that the ready-made waist sold to a woman of ordinary size were shaped in exact proportion to that she had named -- that is, ten inches difference between bust measurement and the waist.

 

                                                                                                                        1889

 

 

Women are from Venus; men are from some other place,

and there isn’t much either sex can do about it..

 

 

 

Chapter 5

THOUGHTS WHILE SEWING

 

            Men sew wild oats

And women sew buttons           

 

The shortest way to a man’s heart

                        is down his throat         

 

Man’s love is like the moon

If it does not grow larger it is certain to grow smaller

 

A man may do good by stealth                          

But as for his blushing to find it fame, that’s all nonsense

 

Man shrinks from cold meat

                        Does this arise from man’s innate desire of always ruling the roost?

 

Man takes a woman and a dowry in the same way that he accepts the

hamper that brings him a handsome present of game

 

Men have two ways of extinguishing the flame of love:

                        either they let it burn out quietly or they snuff it out at one blow

 

In a dilemma, during the time a man has been standing like a fool fumbling

for an excuse, a woman would have invented ten thousand

 

Wives are often foolish to sit up for their husbands, but you hear

of few husbands who have the patience to sit up for their wives

 

How many men are there who think they are making themselves exceedingly

popular -- when they are making themselves extremely ridiculous.

                                                                                                                        1853

 

 

            When a man’s conscience begins to get hard, it does it faster than anything in nature;

it is, some may say, like the boiling of an egg; it is very clear at first, but it

soon gets cloudy, one minute more you may cut it with a knife.

                                                                                                                        1852

 

 

Woman’s Tenderness and Love

 

                        It has been said that in sickness, there is no hand like a woman’s hand; no heart like a woman’s heart and there is not.  A man’s breast may swell with unutterable sorrow, and apprehension may rend his mind yet place him by the sick couch, and shadowy rather than light of sad night watches it; let him have to count over the long  dull hours of the night and wait alone sleepless, the struggle of the gay dawn into the chamber of suffering -- let him be appointed to his ministry, even for the sake of the brother heart, or the father of his being, his grosser nature, even close, and his spirit grow impatient of his dreamy task; and though love and anxiety remain undisturbed, his mind will own to itself a creeping in of an irresistible selfishness, which he may indeed be ashamed of and struggle or reject, but which, in spite of all his effort characterize his nature and prove in one instant at least, manly weakness.

 

But see a mother, a wife, or a sister, in his place.  The woman feels no weariness, or forgetfulness.  In silence, in the depth of night, she dwells, not passively, but so far as the qualified terms may express our meaning, joyously.  Her ear acquires a bind man’s instinct, from time to time it catches the slightest stir or whisper the breath of the now more than loved one who lies under the hand of affliction.  Her steps, as in obedience to an impulse of a signal, would not awaken a mouse; if she speaks, her words, soft echo of natural harmony most delicious to the sick man’s ear, convey all that sound can convey of pity, comfort, and devotion; and thus night after night she tends him, like a creature sent from a higher world when an earthly watchfulness has failed; her eyes never twinkling; her nature, that at  other times was weakness, now gaining superhuman strength, and magnanimity, herself forgotten, her sex alone, predominant.

                                                                                                                        1850

 

 

They tell about a man in Maine who refused to get up and light the fire, and as his wife said she wouldn’t, they remained in bed thirty-seven hours before this matter was settled.

 

Our sympathies are, of course, with the woman, and we may be permitted to entertain a regret that it did not occur to her perform a great deed of self-sacrifice upon this occasion.  How noble and beautiful would have been the example set her husband, how touchingly would she have shown her wifely devotion, how keenly would she have made him feel his meanness, if she had risen and made the fire -- If she had risen, we say, and made the fire under the bed, in order to rout him out all of a sudden!  A woman who throws away such a chance as that is false to her duty and to her sex.

                                                                                                                                    1878

 

 

            When a lover leaves the house of his adored one at a late hour in the evening, and walks musingly homeward beneath the twinkling stars, his fond fancy pictures her, clothed in white samite, resting sweetly upon her pillow, with her unbound hair tossed about her sleeping face, and angels bending over her sleeping couch whispering heavenly dreams.  Perhaps at that very moment she is in the pantry gnawing hungrily on a ham bone.

                                                                                                                                    1883

 

 

                        There is a good deal of sport poked at women for being afraid of mice, but men are bigger cowards.  Many men never go up fishing unless they take demijohns of whiskey along for fear they will be bitten by a snake.

                                                                                                                                    1884

 

 

 

When we were young we were taught that certain rules in life, if carried out would bring us the respect and esteem of our fellowmen, but we have learned by experience, that many of them have a tendency to produce a different result. 

 

For instance, let a young man become a miserable sot, a worthless apology for a man, let him commit acts and crimes that are too low to be put in the paper, misuse his parents, defraud his creditors, and break the hearts of many of the gentler sex, and then let him join some organization that claims to be for reform and he is immediately (before he has proved to the world, by living virtuous life for months and years, that he has truly reformed) the lion of the day.  He is met with smiles and congratulations in the store, on the street, and is at once admitted into the best  society, because he is such a fine fellow, such a model of a man, while on the otherhand, the young man that has always lived a virtuous life and been an honor to society, and a credit to his Maker, is hardly noticed, or he may receive the compliment that he is too “clever and bashful” to commit a disgraceful act, and so goes the world.

 

“When a lovely woman stoops to folly” the best thing she can do is die.

                                                                                                                                    1884

 

 

            Many a man thinks that it is his goodness which keeps him from crime, when it is only his full stomach.  On half allowance he would be as ugly and knavish as anybody. Don’t mistake potatoes from principles

                                                                                                                                    1887

 

 

Men !!!!   

When Attending the Theatre --

 

                        What are you there for?

 

                        To enjoy yourself and annoy everyone else as much as you possibly can.

 

                        Always seat yourself so as to incommode your neighbors.  If a slender, nervous woman is next to you, bully her until she gives up half her allotted space to you.  This can be done by placing your elbow on the arm of the seat and then turning your body till the elbow has sunk into her side.

 

            If her escort should be so unconventional as to complain, smile helplessly and point to the lady on the other side of you, as much as to say that you are being pushed over against your will.

 

            If a woman in front wears a big hat and you are a man, you must stand it, but if you are a woman, you can at least get even.  Remark to your escort, “Just see how easily you men are fooled. Now, when we came in you thought the lace on that hat was real guipure, but it’s nothing but cheap cotton imitation, and now I remember seeing a lot of it on one of the cheap dry goods stores’ bargain counters the other day.”  A few remarks like that in a soprano tone will make the wearer of the hat wish she were dead.

 

            Always step on the dress of the woman in front of you if you can.

 

            Kick the hat under the seat in front at every opportunity; or, if a man, spit tobacco juice so that it will be-spatter it.  This is peculiarly effective with a light felt hat.

 

            Let all your remarks about the play be in a loud tone.

                                                                                                                        1889

 

 

ADVICE TO GIRLS WHO CONTEMPLATE MATRIMONY

 

            A man’s heart is ensnared by a pretty hand, nice teeth, a round, low voice, frank eyes, beautiful hair; by the way a girl walks, talks, plays, rides; by her gifts, her smile, her amiability, good taste, generosity, or the manner in which she greets, fascinates or abuses him.  She may not know how she won him, but if she doesn’t know how to keep him the best thing for her to do is find out.  There are many things we know by intuition; the rest have to be learned by experience.  Conscious of her abilities and inabilities as a wife, a wise woman will learn to keep a husband just as she learns how to keep a house. 

 

            Men are susceptible; even more so than women.

 

            There is this difference:  The average man inquires whether he is in condition to marry.  The average woman doesn’t.  If the man pleases her fancy, she is satisfied.  She may not be able to play any part in the new drama except to hang upon his neck and coax to be petted. Such a wife is a burden to any man.  She doesn’t understand him; neither does she know the chief constituents of a home.

 

            The wife who takes an interest in her home, in her husband’s affairs, and finds pleasure in contributing to his comfort and happiness, is a treasure of greater value than a gold mine.

 

            The wife who has no higher ambition than to be kept alive is a poor investment. 

 

            The average man has little use for a smart woman.  She is full of schemes, and is ambitious to shine.  Her disposition is anything but domestic, and she is not the most genial companion for a man whose mind is taken up with business affairs.  He doesn’t care how intelligent she is, but he hasn’t much use for her if she is smart.

 

            Men like to be looked up at, depended on, quoted, and referred.  An ugly temper is a trial that few women are able to endure.  The only cure is silence.  You can’t kiss a furious man; it only makes him worse.   The thing to do is to keep still, let him cool and let the matter drop.  He will respect your sense and come to terms of his own accord. 

 

            Men must be taken as they are, not as they should be; they improve under the refining influence of mutual love, and he is a wretched specimen of humanity who cannot be counted on to shield his wife from the buffets of the world and be an anchor when youth and beauty have proved unfaithful.

 

            To be born a woman is to be born a martyr, but the husband that is worth wedding is worth keeping; and if a little artifice, a pleasant smile, a contented heart, forbearance, devotion and tact will hold him, by all means let him be held.

                                                                                                                        1889

 

 

            Women’s suffrage has been defeated in the Massachusetts legislature this year by about the same vote as in previous years.  The cause lacks the one impulse to give it effect, and that is the growth of the sentiment among the women themselves that it would be beneficial to them or advantageous to the commonwealth.  Until this takes place its advocacy will be an artificial demand for a gift which is not wanted.

                                                                                                                        1889

 

 

Tribute to Women

 

True, she cannot sharpen a pencil, and, outside of commercial circles, she can’t tie a package to make it look like anything save a crooked cross section of chaos; but land of miracles see what she can do with a pan! 

 

            She cannot walk so may miles around a billiard table with nothing to eat, and nothing (to speak of) to drink, but she can walk the floor all night with a fretful baby.  She can ride five hundred miles without going into a smoking car to rest (and get away from the children).  She can enjoy an evening visit without smoking half a dozen cigars.  She can endure the distraction of a house full of children all day, while her husband sends them all to bed before he has been home an hour.

 

             A boy with a sister is fortunate, a fellow with a cousin is to be envied, a young man with a sweetheart is happy, and a man with a good wife is thrice blessed more than they all.

                                                                                                                        1889

 

 

A Few Don’ts for Girls

 

            Girls, don’t be slovenly, it shows a lack of that innate culture and

refinement of the mind that belongs to the true lady.

 

            Don’t endeavor to be odd in dress; it is as objectionable as being overly fashionable.

 

            Don’t follow fashion in dress unless it accords with the dictates of reason

and Good sense.

 

            Don’t forget that pure-minded, intelligent women are not strictly fashionable.

Sensible persons have more important subjects about which to think.

 

            Don’t wear tight corsets if you value health.  Women who persist in tight lacing

should be sent to where they could revel in the luxury of a straight jacket.

 

            Don’t tattle.  Tattling is the thorns and briars of speech and is detrimental morally

and mentally.

 

            Don’t cultivate the habit of criticizing every person and everything you see; it is

evidence you are a better subject for criticism than anything else.

 

            Don’t forget that your best dower is the dower of perfect womanliness.

 

            Don’t forget that a good domestic education will give more real enjoyment and

comfort when married than any amount of superfluous accomplishments.

 

            Don’t forget that marriage makes or mars two lives.

 

            Don’t marry a man who has sown many wild oats.  It is a sure crop and you may

live to reap the harvest.

 

            Don’t marry a man in the habit of drinking.  Better take Rough on Tipplers, that is a

grain of sense.

 

            Don’t marry a dude; he is a cross between a peacock, a donkey, and a tailor’s

Goose -- an unclassified nothing.

.

            Don’t marry an irreligious man.  Impiety is a canker worm that eats up every

blossom in the garden of manhood.

 

            Don’t forget that the superstructure of wedded happiness must be based on the

foundation of affinity, compatibility and true love, or it must ever prove a failure.

 

Pray don’t read the foregoing paragraphs and cast them aside as worth less

without weighing them in the scales of light and reason.

                                                                                                                        1891

 

 

While we have respect for earnest women, and recognize their power in reforms, charities, and in work of religion and of ethics, the professional woman-stumper has never been an admirable being in any era of America.  The woman who cannot speak in pubic is better then the woman who does.  The capability and habit of the latter class to gets press and popular notice is neither a criterion nor a reward of merit.  The women of the home, not the women of the platform, are the womanly women, the meritorious ones.

                                                                                                                        1891

 

 

It does not matter much to a boy whether he is good looking or the reverse.  He is not obliged to wait for somebody to ask him to dance, and his matrimonial prospects don’t appear to suffer any serious discount from personal shortages that would send a girl’s stock away down below par, or even put her out of the market altogether.  One never sees a man so hideous or repulsive but that some woman is ready to marry him, if he will only marry her, but men are generally left to run to waste as unappropriated blessings.  The “handsome is as handsome does” theory won’t hold at all after we get out of the nursery, and a little experience soon convinces us that it is a fraud and a delusion, like any other domestic action about the drumstick being the choicest part of the fowl, with which our elders used to impose upon unsuspecting simplicity of our childhood.   

 

            The ugly girls never get drives in the park nor free seats in the theater; and as for ice cream and French candy, no matter how handsomely they deport themselves, shouldn’t they know the taste of either if they waited to have it bestowed as a reward of merit.  Indeed, the expensiveness of being an ugly girl is one of the worst things about it; there are no perquisites.  They gets no plums out of life’s pudding, for under present conditions men do the carving, and as one of them says, “All the fine things we think and say about women apply to those only who are tolerably good-looking or graceful.”

 

Now, suppose the same rule applied to men and that only the good-looking ones could hope to attain to wealth and distinction; suppose, for instance, that the famous wart on Oliver Cromwell’s nose had been sufficient to condemn him to obscurity, as it inevitably would have done had he been a woman; suppose Grover Cleveland’s too ample girth of waist had kept him out of he White House, as it certainly would have kept Mrs. Cleveland out had she been the unlucky possessor of that inconvenient superfluity; or suppose that David B. Hill’s bald pate had rendered  him ineligible to the office of governor of New York, as we have not the shadow of a doubt that a bald head would render any woman in America ineligible to the office of governor’s wife; suppose, in fact, that a bald head was sufficient to blast any man’s prospect in life as effectually as it would in a woman’s—we think most of the middle-aged men, at least those into whose hands this paper may fall, will admit that that would be a little hard.  And, in fact, isn’t it a little hard that anybody’s destiny in life should be made to depend irretrievably upon accident, over which they have no control, such as having been born with a red head or a pug nose?  But this is the law under which women have lived since beginning of time and it doesn’t give the ugly girls a fair chance.

                                                                                                                        1891

 

 

            Some young ladies cannot distinguish the difference between the hair on a man’s head and a lady’s wrap, especially when riding in a railroad train on the way home from operas.

                                                                                                                        1896

 

Women Should Take More Time Between Meals

 

                        It wouldn’t make much difference as to how much a woman ate, says a publication which claims to be an authority on culinary topics, if she would only wait long enough between meals to get hungry, but doesn’t, and there’s where the trouble begins.  Nature is a tenacious old jade.  Given time, she will digest and assimilate almost anything that the stomach can retain.

 

            It is a well-known fact that spells of adverse fortune are invariably accompanied by superior physical conditions.  Brokers’ families never looked so well as during a panic.  High-toned criminals’ invariably come out of prison in better health and face than they had when they went in.  And who has not remarked the refinement of spirit and nature born of sorrow and temperance in bereaved families. It is well worth the expense of a trip to Carlsbad or Aix-les-Bains -- not only to take the waters, but to learn how not to take the foods that deform the body.

 

            Unless a woman washes or works for a living she doesn’t need three meals any day of her life.  It takes systematic work to consume that much fuel.  Engineers are too clever to fill the furnace with coal unless there is a trip to make, and elevator to run or work to do.

 

            It doesn’t matter what a man looks like, so long as he is decent and healthy, but it is the duty of every gentle woman to be as good-looking as her circumstances will permit/ Women often eat themselves ugly, ill and brutal.

                                                                                                                        1898

 

 

            At a recent school board examination for girls one of the tasks was an essay on boys, and this was one of the compositions, just as it was handed in by a girl of 12: 

 

The boy is not an animal, yet they can be heard to a considerable distance.  When a boy hollers he opens his big mouth like frogs, but girls hold their tongue till they are spoken to and then they answer respectable and tell just how it was.  A boy thinks himself clever because he can wade where it is deep, but God made the dry land for every living thing, and rested on the seventh day.  When the boy grows up he is called a husband, and then he stops wading and stays out nights, but the grew-up girl is a widow and keeps house.

                                                                                                                        1898

 

 

Nowadays when men are trying to do everything it is not strange that many things are overdone.  It is not strange that there are all kinds of physical and mental disturbances. If a woman who is a doctor, or a lawyer, or a journalist, or in business would not try to be a society woman too it might be different, but the woman who knows when she has done a day’s work has yet to be born.  Usually a woman’s way is to keep doing until she drops.  Working in this manner has manifold evils. The most common trouble resulting from over exertion, either mentally or physically, is constipation of the bowels, with all its attendant horrors.

                                                                                                                        1899

 

 

Many people have a reputation for being virtuous when they are only discreet.

                                                                                                               1899

 

 

Chapter 6

HOW TO

 

 

Without TV and its ubiquitous experts to demonstrate how certain things should be done, the ladies had nowhere to turn for advice except to the newspapers and magazines of the day.  Experts of the day were not at all hesitant to tell their readers exactly how to sit on a horse, how to dust a room, how to get and keep a man, or how to bring up a child.

 

Could it be that some of the instructions were written in jest?

 

 

INTERESTING TO MOTHERS

 

            We have an infallible means of keeping babies, from 2 to 10 months old, perfectly quiet for hours.  We did think of getting a patent on it, and selling rights, but patriotism overcame avarice with us.  The modus operandi is as follows:  as soon as a squaller awakes, set the child up, propped by pillows if it cannot sit alone and smear his fingers with thick molasses.  Then put a half-dozen feathers into his hands and the young one will sit and pick the feathers from one hand to the other, till it drops asleep.  As soon as it wakes, more molasses and more feathers, and in place of ever astounding yells, there will be silence and enjoyment unspeakable.  Who says that we have done nothing for our country?  We shall expect a service of silver plate from every community of married men and women in the State.

                                                                                                                         1855

 

 

A good way to make use of old table cloths which are no longer suitable for the table, is to cut them in good-sized pieces and keep them in a drawer in the pantry, and on baking days bring them forth to lay the warm bread, or cookies, or cakes upon.  They may take the place of towels in many other ways and prove a substantial economy.

                                                                                                                        1855

 

 

            A woman should sit on a horse thus: The head straight, easy turning upon the shoulders in any direction without involving a movement of the body.  The eyes fixed straight to the front, looking between the horse’s ears, and always in the direction in which she is going.  The upper part of the body easy, flexible and straight.  The lower part of the body, firm without stiffness.  The shoulders well back and in the same line.  The arms falling naturally.  The forearm bent.  The wrists on a level with the elbows.  The reins held in each hand.  The finger firmly closed, facing each other, with the thumbs extended on the ends of the lines.  The right foot falling naturally on the pommel of the saddle, the left foot in the stirrup without leaning on it.  The part of the right leg between the knee and the hip joint should be turned on its outer or right side and should press throughout the length of the saddle.  The knees should, in their respective positions, be continually in contact, without an exception.  The lower or movable part of the legs plays upon the immovable at the knee joint, the exception being when the rider rises to trot, at which time the upper part of the leaves the saddle. (sic)

                                                                                                                        1884

 

 

            A great deal of attention should be given to the proper airing of the mattress every morning, and at least once a week a stiff brush should remove the dust which will accumulate even in the best ordered house, around and under the tufts bits of cotton or the bits of leather, or whatever is used to tack the mattress with.  Attention should also be directed to the edges of the mattress, where the braid is sewed on for dust sifts under that.  Where the bed-room is also the dressing room, dust cannot be avoided, but it may be at least changed and it need not be allowed to accumulate.

                                                                                                                        1885

 

 

            The proper way to dust a room is to begin with the walls.  Pin several thicknesses of cloth over a broom and sweep the walls down thoroughly, leaving at the same time all the doors and windows open.  This matter of sweeping the walls is important and should be done once a week in rooms that are much used. Then with a damp cloth wipe off the picture cords or wires, the backs of all the picture frames and the tops of the door and window frames.  If there is any danger of injuring pictures or frames with a damp cloth use a dry one, but wipe them off carefully.  As often as you can get a good draft which will carry the dust out of the window, shake and beat the curtains, whether they be Holland, scrim or what not, for they are prime sinners in the matter of harboring dust.  The window -- sash, sill and glass -- should also receive attention.  Use a large cloth with half of it well dampened for dusting, the dry end being used to wipe off small articles that might be injured by dampness -- and be careful that you manipulate the cloth so as to wipe the dust into it and keep it there.  If it gets dirty have a clean one, and always wash them out and scald them after using.  If there are inside shutters to the windows they need to be cared for almost as tenderly as a baby.  A thorough cleaning every week, carefully wiping both upper and under sides of the slats is the only thing that will keep them in decent order.  A room is not thoroughly dusted until all the furniture and woodwork and gas fixtures have been cleaned with a damp duster.  Upholstered furniture should be taken out, brushed all over and then wiped with a damp cloth, not forgetting the underside.

                                                                                                                        1887

 

 

HOW TO CARE FOR A BABY

 

            The first natural right of a baby is to have good ancestors.  It is first the duty of every father and mother to see that their babies have honest, healthy, intelligent parents.  But, after the child is born, his first great need is quiet.  The natural condition of healthy babies is serene contentment.  Nothing should be allowed to disturb the regal repose of his little majesty, under the canopy of his cradle.  Let the little king lie in state, in his swaddling clothes, and let  his  rest, under his blanket, be as inviolate as that of an emperor under his purple robe.

 

            But it is no exaggeration to say that thousands of babies die every year for the lack of adequate rest.  They are “jounced” by grandpa, poked by grandma, tossed and tumbled by mama, and generally shaken up and demoralized by rampant and fiercely affectionate papa.

 

            The baby is thus made the means of amusement for the whole family circle.  He is made to furnish entertainment for the whole house.  He is encouraged to laugh, and crow and coo.  Few realize what a great mental effort, on the baby’s part, is required for these manifestations.  It is as much strain for the little undeveloped fellow as for the poet to write an immortal song, or the president to write his annual message

 

            Let the baby grow like a plant, unconsciously absorb the mother’s love as a flower absorbs the sunshine, and feel the all-embracing care about him as the grass feels the dew.

 

             Do not try to make the baby “notice.”

 

            Do not try to make him “forward”.

 

            Do not try to push him ahead of your neighbor’s baby.

 

            But, you ask:  “Shall we let the baby grow up dull and stupid?”  By no means; simply let him grow up naturally.

 

            “Blessed is the mother,” said a lady, thoroughly experienced in domestic affairs -- “blessed is the mother whose baby is a “lunk head.”  Stupid babies make wise men and women.  A baby is a little more than a plant.  Let him vegetate in his infancy, and be content to wait for his intellect’s development until a later date.

 

            Give babies a chance to rest while they are babies.  They will probably never get a chance afterward.

 

“Baby sleep a little longer,

Till the little limbs are stronger.

If she sleeps a little longer,

Baby, too, shall fly away.”

                                                                                                                        1889

 

 

HOW TO WASH SILK STOCKINGS

 

                        Do your silk stockings ever get spoiled in the wash?  Have them done at home and make the maid follow these directions, advises an English correspondent.

 

                        No soap must be rubbed on the articles.  Before commencing, have ready two hot irons and two pans of water.  In one pan pour hot water and in the other cold, adding a wine glass of common vinegar to each.  Make the hot water into a creamy lather of suitable consistency, from the recipe given for “soap jelly”.

 

                        Wash each stocking separately in the hot water, and rub carefully, commencing at the toe.  Squeeze it out, place it in the rinse-water but on no account wring them.  Roll separately in a dry cloth.  Now take the stockings, iron them each on the wrong side and finish them on the right, taking care to leave no creases.  If these instructions are properly carried out, you may wash with safety the most brilliant colors.

 

                        For the “soap Jelly” take a half a pound of yellow soap and shave finely into a sauce-pan with one quart of water.  Stand it by the fire until it simmers, and let it remain until cold, when it will have the appearance of a stiff jelly.

                                                                                                                                    1899

 

 

 

IRONING A SHIRT WAIST

 

                        Not infrequently a young woman finds it necessary to launder a shirt waist at home for some emergency when the laundryman or the home servant cannot do it.  Hence these directions for ironing the waist: To iron summer shirt waists so that they will look like new it is needful to have them starched evenly with Defiance starch, then made perfectly smooth and rolled tight in a damp cloth, to be laid away two or three hours.  When ironing have a bowl of water and a clean piece of muslin beside the ironing board.  Have your iron hot, but not sufficiently so to scorch, and absolutely clean.  Begin by ironing the back, then the front sides and the sleeves, followed by the neckband and the cuffs.  When wrinkles appear apply the damp cloth and remove them.  Always iron from the top of the waist to the bottom.  If there are plaits in the front iron them downward, after first raising each one with a blunt knife, and with the edge of the iron follow every line of stitching to give it distinctness.  After the shirt waist is ironed it should be well aired by the fire or in the sun before it is folded and put away.

                                                                                                                                    1902

 

 

HOW  TO JUDGE A WOMAN

 

You can tell the good-natured girl without a chart to reveal her whereabouts. All you have to do is look at her face.

 

                        There is a man who is giving drawing room lectures upon faces.  He reads the character, not by the head or the hand, but by the face.

 

                        “You take a face that is open,” says the lecturer, “and you find a peculiarly frank disposition.  The girl who can laugh and show her teeth, broadening her mouth into a wide smile, is a girl who has a spirit, one who would not deceive you!

 

 

Chapter 7

TAKE MY ADVICE

 

The strongest human instinct is to impart information.

 

That was just as true one hundred fifty years ago when the only means of conveying information was via the printed word and the lecture hall, as it is now.

 

Ann Landers, Dear Abby, Dr. Phil, and their like could not exist without the desire to share information and/or advice.

 

It is up to the reader to decide which of the following pieces of advice to accept and which to consign to the recycle bin.

 

 

GOOD ADVICE TO YOUNG WOMEN

 

            Trust not to uncertain riches, but prepare yourselves for every emergency of life.  Learn to work and be not dependent on servants to make your bread, sweep your floors and darn your stockings.  Above all, do not esteem too highly these honorable young men who sustain themselves and their aged parents by the work of their own hands, while you care and receive into your company those lazy idle popin-jays who appear to help themselves as long as they an keep soul and body together, and the funds to live in fashion.  If you are wise, you will look at this subject as we do, and when you are old enough to become wise, you will prefer an honest mechanic with not one cent to commence life, to the fashionable loafer with a capital of ten thousand dollars.  Whenever we hear remarked, “Such a lady has married a fortune,” we tremble for her future prosperity.  Riches left to children by wealthy parents turn out to be a curse instead of a blessing.  Young women, remember this, instead of sounding the purse of your lovers and examining the cut of their coats, look into their habits and their hearts, mark if they have any trades and depend upon themselves.  See that they have minds which will look above a butterfly existence.  Talk not of the beautiful white skin, and the soft delicate hand and the splendid form and fine appearance of a young gentleman.

 

                                                                                                                                    1851

 

 

            Ladies, why don’t you go out in the open air and warm sunshine, and add luster to your eyes, bloom to your cheeks, elasticity to your steps and vigor to your frame?

 

            Take early morning exercises -- let loose your corset strings, run up a hill for wager, and down again for fun.

 

            Roam in the fields, climb the fences, leap the ditches, wade the brooks, and go home with an excellent appetite. 

 

            Liberty thus exercised and enjoyed, will render you healthy, blooming and beautiful -- as lovely as the Graces and prolific as Deverra.  The buxom, bright eyed, rosy cheeked, full breasted, bounding lass -- who can darn a stocking, mend trousers, make her own frocks, command a regiment of pots and kettles, feed the pigs, milk the cows, and be a lady withal in company -- is just the sort of girl for any worthy young man to marry.

 

            In truth, what you need is more liberty and less fashionable restraints -- more kitchen and less parlor -- more leg exercise and less sofa -- more pudding and less piano -- more frankness and less mock modesty -- more corned beef and less corsets -- more breakfast and less bishop.

 

            Loosen yourselves a little.  Breathe the pure atmosphere of freedom, and become something nearly as lovely and beautiful as the God of nature designed.

                                                                                                                                    1851

 

 

AGE FOR ENTERING MATRIMONY

 

            The most proper age for entering the holy bonds of matrimony has been discussed but never settled.  I am entitled to my opinions; and although I cannot here give the grounds on which it rests, the reader may take it for granted, that I could adduce were this the proper place, a great number of reasons, both moral and physical, for the dogma I am about to propound.  The maxim which I would inculcate, is this -- that matrimony should not be contracted before the first year of the fourth septenniad, on the part of females, nor before the last year of the same in the case of the male; in other words, the female should be at least 21, and the male 28 years old.  That there should be seven years difference between the ages of the sexes, at whatever period of life the solemn contract is entered upon, need not be urged, as it is universally admitted there is a difference of seven years, not in the actual duration of life in the two sexes, but in the stamina of the constitution—the symmetry of the form, and the lineaments of the face.

                                                                                                            1852

 

 

Women, young women, either believe falsely or judge harshly of men in one thing:  you, young loving creature, who dream of your lover by night and by day -- you fancy he does the same of you?  He does not -- he cannot; nor is it right he should.  One hour, perhaps, your presence has captivated him, subdued him even to weakness, the next he will be in the world, working his way as a man among men, forgetting for the time being, your very existence.  Possibly if you saw him, his outer self hard and stern, so different to the self you know, would strike you with pain.  Or else his inner and diviner self, higher than you dream of, would turn coldly from your insignificant love.

 

            Yet all this must be; you have no right to murmur.  You cannot rule a man’s soul -- no women ever did -- except by holding unworthy sway over unworthy passions.  Be content if you lie in his heart as that heart lies in his bosom -- deep and calm -- his beating unseen, uncounted, often times unfelt; but still giving life to his whole being.

                                                                                                                        1852

 

 

            No wise young woman will marry a man who treats either his mother or sister with disrespect or neglect.  No one man in a hundred of that class will make even a decent husband.

            Poverty is not a bar to marriage, but meanness or drunkenness or laziness, or the lack of virtues first mentioned, is, which neither good looks nor money nor family connections should be allowed to influence.

                                                                                                                        1884

 

 

ADVICE TO GIRLS WHO CONTEMPLATE MATRIMONY

 

 

Listen, Girls

 

A man’s heart is ensnared by a pretty hand, nice teeth, a round, low voice, frank eyes, beautiful hair; by the way a girl walks, talks, plays, rides; by her gifts, her smiles, her amiability, good taste, generosity, or the manner in which she greets, fascinates or abuses him.  She may not know how she won him, but if she doesn’t know how to keep him the best thing for her to do is find out.  There are many things we know by intuition; the rest have to be learned by experience.  Conscious of her abilities and inabilities as a wife, a wise woman will learn to keep a husband just as she learns how to keep house.

 

Men are susceptible; even more so than women.

 

There is this difference: The average man inquires whether he is in condition to marry.   The average woman doesn’t.  If the man pleases her fancy, she is satisfied.  She may not be able to play any part in the new drama except to hang upon his neck and coax to be petted.

 

Such a wife is a burden to any man.  She doesn’t understand him; neither does she know the chief constituents of a home.

 

The wife who takes an interest in her home, in her husband’s affairs, and finds pleasure in contributing to his comfort and happiness, is a treasure of greater value than a gold mine.

 

The wife who has no higher ambition than to be kept alive is a poor investment.

 

The average man has very little use for a smart woman.  She is full of schemes, and is ambitious to shine.  Her disposition is anything but domestic, and she is not the most genial companion for a man whose mind is taken up with business affairs.  He doesn’t care how intelligent she is, but he hasn’t much use for her if she is smart.

 

Men like to be looked up at, depended on, quoted, and referred.  An ugly temper is a trial that few women are able to endure.  The only cure is silence.  You can’t kiss a furious man; it only makes him worse.  The thing to do is to keep still, let him cool and let the matter drop.  He will respect your sense and come to terms of his own accord.

 

Men must be taken as they are, not as they should be; they improve under the refining influence of mutual love, and he is a wretched specimen of humanity who can not be counted on to shield his wife from the buffets of he world and be an anchor when youth and beauty have proved unfaithful.

 

To be born a woman is to be born a martyr, but the husband that is worth wedding is worth keeping; and if a little artifice, a pleasant smile, a contented heart, forbearance, devotion and tact will hold him, by all means let him be held.

 

1889

 

Don’t snub a boy because he wears shabby clothes.  When Edison, the inventor of the telephone, (sic) first entered Boston, he wore a pair of yellow linen breeches in the depth of winter.

 

Don’t snub a boy because his home is plain and unpretending.  Abraham Lincoln’s early home was a log cabin.

 

Don’t snub a boy because of dullness in his lessons.  Hogarth, the celebrated painter and engraver, was a stupid boy at his books.

 

Don’t snub a boy because of the ignorance of his parents.  Shakespeare, the world’s poet was the son of a man who was unable to write his own name.

 

Don’t snub a boy because he chooses a humble trade.  The author of Pilgrim’s Progress was a tinker.

 

Don’t snub a boy because of physical disabilities.  Milton was blind.

 

Don’t snub a boy because he stutters.  Demosthenes, the great orator of Greece, over came a harsh and stammering voice.

                                                                                                            1887

 

THE KISS PERFECTED

 

Mrs. Langtry has invented a kiss that double discounts anything of the kind ever attempted by Emma Abbot.  In a memorable scene of one production, Mrs. Langtry, playing the part of Lady Clancarty, finds her husband has escaped from his pursuers through an open window into her room.

 

She stands with her back to the audience clear down the stage, near the footlights.  The husband looks at her a moment and then rushes wildly into her arms.  They both swing around and expose their profiles to the audience.  Then they hold each other at arms length. 

 

Then her bosom heaves and he pants.  Then her head falls upon his breast, reclining backward.  There is a crimson blush suffusing her charming face.  Then he looks down at her, and she looks up at him.  Then there is a perceptible pressure around the waist.

 

Then he suddenly places his lips to hers.  Then she clasps him around the head.  Then there is a soft, gurgling sound, as of water escaping from a kitchen sink.  Then they are, as it were, glued together.  Then all is still.

 

Women in the audience become nervous.  Bald-headed men are paralyzed.  Men around town have their watches out timing this.  One second, two, three, four, five, six, seven -- and then there is an explosion, as if the bung had blown out of a beer barrel.

 

It is all over.

                        That is the Langtry kiss.

                                                                                                            1889

 

 

TAKE SEATS ON THE FLOOR

 

It is the custom of nearly every young girl to sit on the floor while putting on her shoes.  Indeed, many women keep up the habit to middle-age, though full-fledged womanhood not infrequently displays such embonpoint as would make such a course difficult.

 

 

 

Chapter 8

COSMETICS

 

 

Although it was generally held, by the male population, that the more the feminine face was uncovered the better it looked, and the frequent reiteration of “The natural look is the beautiful look,” the ladies were then, as they are now, constantly striving to improve upon the body with which Nature had endowed them.  Without huge laboratories to provide cosmetics which promised unbelievable results, without even Pond’s Cold Cream, the ladies were left to their own devises to improve their skin, and their bodies...

 

 

RECEIPT FOR GOOD HEALTH AND LOOKS

 

            We can safely recommend the following directions for attaining habitual good health and good looks to all our friends:

 

            For a clear complexion -- Rise early, use plenty of fresh water, observe the strictest moderation in diet, and take plenty of exercise in the open air.  The same plan will be found beneficial in other respects.  Those who regularly pursue it generally possess coral lips, white teeth and pure breath.

 

            To give brilliancy to the eyes -- Shut them early at night, and open them early in the morning; let the mind be constantly intent on the acquisition of useful knowledge, or on the exercise of benevolent feelings.  This will scarcely ever fail to impart to the eyes an intelligent and amiable expression. 

 

To preserve the forehead from wrinkles -- Cultivate contentment, calmness and benignity of spirit; and never on any account indulge a murmuring and resentful, or a malevolent feeling.

 

By constant adherence to the above simple rules, many females have preserved their attractions even to the age of fourscore years and upwards.

                                                                                                                        1855

 

 

            The nature of the female face is such that the more of it uncovered the better it looks, whereas nine women out of ten who are provided with bangs have a happy resemblance to rabbits peeping out of a brush heap.  The only unfortunate feature about the disappearance of the bang is the dread of what is to come after it.  It is to go, that much is settled; but whether the women are to have their heads or wear wigs like those which surmounted the head of Lois XIV, is a question that must fill the world with awe, and the fashion papers with matter for some time to come.

                                                                                                                                    1884

 

 

            A young lady of this city who has been addicted to painting her lips as well as her

cheeks and eyelashes, is now under treatment to reduce the size of her lips, which have

become “horribly enlarged” by chemical poison.

                                                                                                                        1885

 

 

A DECEIVED WOMAN

 

 

Is the lady who uses cosmetics, face lotions, white lead, bismuth powders, arsenic, etc., in the belief of enriching and beautifying the complexion?  It is but temporary and ultimately destroys the skin beyond the power of nature to restore.  Stop it !  Stop it now, and use only D. Harter’s Iron Tonic, which imparts the vigor and loveliness of youth.

                                                                                                                        1887

 

 

With no Martha Stewart around to show and tell them how certain things should be done, the ladies had nowhere to turn except to the newspapers and magazines of the day.  “Experts” were not at all hesitant to tell their readers exactly how to sit on a horse or how to dust a room.  Could it be that some of the instructions were written in jest?

 

 

Chapter 9

JUST GOOD ADVICE

 

 

            A woman should sit on a horse thus:  The head straight, easy turning upon the shoulders in any direction without involving a movement of the body.  The eyes fixed straight to the front, looking between the horse’s ears, and always in the direction in which she is going.  The upper part of the body easy, flexible and straight.  The lower part of the body, firm without stiffness. The shoulders well back and in the same line.  The arms falling naturally.  The forearm bent.  The wrists on a level with the elbows.  The reins held in each hand.  The fingers firmly closed, facing each other, with the thumbs extended on the ends of the lines.  The right foot falling naturally on the pommel of the saddle, the left foot in the stirrup without leaning on it.  The part of the right leg between the knee and the hip joint should be turned on its outer or right side and should press throughout the length of the saddle.  The knees should, in their respective positions, be continually in contact, without an exception.  The lower or movable part of the leg plays upon the immovable at the knee joint, the sole exception being when the rider rises to trot, at which time the upper part of the leaves the saddle. (sic)

 

                                                                                                                                    1884

 

 

            A great deal of attention should be given to the proper airing of the mattress every morning, and at least once a week a stiff brush should remove the dust which will accumulate, even in the best ordered house, around and under the tufts bits of cotton or the bits of leather, or whatever is used to tack the mattress with.  Attention should also be directed to the edge of the mattress, where the braid is sewed on for dust sifts under that.  Where the bed-room is also the dressing room, dust cannot be avoided, but it may be at least changed and it need not be allowed to accumulate.

                                                                                                                                    1885

 

 

                        A good way to make use of old red table cloths which are no longer suitable for the table, is to cut them in good-sized pieces and keep them in a drawer in the pantry, and on baking days bring them forth to lay the warm bread, or cookies, or cakes upon.  They may take the place of towels in many other ways and prove a substantial economy.

1885.

 

 

INTERESTING TO MOTHERS

 

            We have an infallible means of keeping babies, from 2 to 10 months old, perfectly quiet for hours.  We did think of getting a patent for it, and selling rights, but patriotism overcame avarice with us.  The modus operandi is as follows:  As soon as the squallier awakes, set the child up, propped by pillows if it cannot sit alone, and smear his fingers with thick molasses.  Then put a half-dozen feathers into his hands and the young one will sit and pick the feathers from one hand to the other, till it drops asleep.  As soon as it wakes, more molasses and more feathers, and in place of ever astounding yells, there will be silence and enjoyment unspeakable.  Who say that we have done nothing for our country?  We shall expect a service of silver plate from every community of married men and women in this State.

                                                                                                                        1855

 

 

HOW TO DUST A ROOM

 

            The proper way to dust a room is to begin with the walls.  Pin several thicknesses of cloth over a broom and sweep the walls down thoroughly, leaving at the same time all the doors and windows open.  This matter of sweeping the walls is important and should be done once a week in rooms that are much used.  Then with a damp cloth wipe off the picture cords or wires, the backs of all the picture frames and the tops of the door and window frames.  If there is any danger of injuring pictures or frames with a damp cloth use a dry one, but wipe them off carefully.  As often as you can get a good draft which will carry the dust out of the window, shake and beat the curtains, whether they be Holland, scrim or what not, for they are prime sinners in the matter of harboring dust.  The window -- sash, sill and glass -- should also receive attention.  Use a large cloth with half of it well dampened for dusting, the dry end being used to wipe off small articles that might be injured by dampness -- and be careful that you manipulate the cloth so as to wipe the dust into it and keep it there.  If it gets dirty have a clean one, and always wash them out and scald them after using. If there are inside shutters to the windows they need to be cared for almost as tenderly as a baby.  A thorough cleaning every week, carefully wiping both upper and under sides of the slats, is the only thing that will keep them in decent order. A room is not thoroughly dusted until all the furniture and woodwork and gas fixtures should have been cleaned with a damp duster.  Upholstered furniture should be taken out, brushed all over and then wiped with a damp cloth, not forgetting the underside.

                                                                                                                                    1887

 

 

How to Care for a Baby

 

            The first natural right of a baby is to have good ancestors.  It is first the duty of every father and mother to see that their babies have honest, healthy, intelligent parents.

 

But, after the child is born, his first great need is quiet.  The natural condition of healthy babyhood is serene contentment.  Nothing should be allowed to disturb the regal repose of his little majesty, under the canopy of his cradle.  Let the little king lie in state, in his swaddling clothes, and let his rest, under his blanket, be as inviolate as that of an emperor under his purple robe. 

 

            But it is no exaggeration to say that thousands of babies die every year for the lack of adequate rest.  They are “jounced” by grandpa, poked by grandma, tossed and tumbled by mama, and generally shaken up and demoralized by rampant and fiercely affectionate papa.

 

            The baby is thus made the means of amusement for the w hole family circle.  He is made to furnish entertainment for the whole house.  He is encouraged to laugh, and crow and coo.  Few realize what a great mental effort, on the baby’s part, is required for these manifestations.  It is as much strain for the little undeveloped fellow as for a poet to write an immortal song, or the president to write his annual message.

 

Let the baby grow like a plant, unconsciously absorb the mother’s love as a flower absorbs the sunshine, and feel the all-embracing care about him as the grass feels the dew.

Do not try to make the baby “notice.”

Do not try to make him ”forward.”

Do not try to push him ahead of your neighbor’s baby.

But, you ask:  “Shall we let the baby grow up dull and stupid?”  By no means; simply let him grow up naturally.

“Blessed is the mother” said a lady, thoroughly experienced in domestic affairs -- “blessed is the mother whose baby is a “lunk head.’”  Stupid babies make wise men and women.  A baby is a little more than a plant.  Let him vegetate in his infancy, and be content to wait for his intellect’s development until a later date.

 

Give babies a chance to rest while they are babies.  They will probably never get a chance afterward.

 

“Baby sleep a little longer,

Till the little limbs are stronger.

If she sleeps a little longer,

Baby, too, shall fly away.”

 

                                                                                                       1889

 

 

HOW TO WASH SILK STOCKINGS

 

Do your silk stockings ever get spoiled in the wash?  Have them done at home and make the maid follow these directions, advises an English correspondent.

 

            No soap must be rubbed on the articles.  Before commencing, have ready two hot irons and two pans of water.  In one pan pour hot water and in the other cold, adding a wine glass of common vinegar to each.  Make the hot water into a creamy lather of suitable consistency, from the recipe given for “soap jelly.” 

 

Wash each stocking separately in the hot water, and rub carefully, commencing at the toe.  Squeeze it out, place it in the rinse-water but on no account wring them.  Roll separately in a dry cloth.  Now take the stockings, iron them each on the wrong side and finish them on the right, taking care to leave no creases.  If these instructions are properly carried out, you may wash with safety the most brilliant colors.

 

For the “soap jelly” take half a pound of yellow soap and shave it finely into a sauce-pan with one quart of water.  Stand it by the fire until it simmers, and let it remain until cold, when it will have the appearance of a stiff jelly.

                                                                                                         1889

 

 

IRONING A SHIRT WAIST

 

            Not infrequently a young woman finds it necessary to launder a shirt waist at home for some emergency   when the laundryman or the home servant cannot do it.  Hence these directions for ironing the waist:  To iron summer shirt waists so that they will look like new it is needful to have them starched evenly with Defiance starch, then made perfectly smooth and rolled tight in a damp cloth, to be laid away two or three hours.  When ironing have a bowl of water and a clean piece of muslin beside the ironing board.  Have your iron hot, but not sufficiently so to scorch, and absolutely clean.  Begin by ironing the back, then the front sides and the sleeves, followed by the neckband and the cuffs.  When wrinkles appear apply the damp cloth and remove them.  Always iron from the top of the waist to the bottom.  If there are plaits in the front iron them downward, after first raising each one with a blunt knife, and with the edge of the iron follow every line of stitching to give it distinctness.  After the shirt waist is ironed it should be well aired by the fire or in the sun before it is folded and put away, says the Philadelphia Inquirer.

                                                                                                                        1902

 

 

HOW TO JUDGE A WOMAN

 

You can tell the good-natured girl without a chart to reveal her whereabouts.  All you have to do is look at her face.

 

There is a man who is giving drawing room lectures upon faces.  He reads the   character, not by the head or the hand, but by the face.

 

“You take a face that is open,” says the lecturer, “and you find a peculiarly frank disposition.  The girl who can laugh and show her teeth, broadening her mouth into a wide smile, is a girl who has a spirit, one who would not deceive you.

 

“The woman who, when she smiles, keeps her lips closed, is not the woman whom you can trust.  She may not be dangerous, but she is secretive.  And, though she may tell you the truth, she will not tell you the whole truth. 

 

“But the open-mouthed girl may have a quick temper, and she generally has.  Her upper lip is short and her temper is no longer than the upper lip.

 

“She gets angry in a hurry, and it is flare-up with her.  Soon over, it may be, but, for a few minutes, the girl with a short upper lip, the laughing mouth and the white teeth falls a victim to her own temper. 

 

“It is usually supposed that the girl with the quick temper is the girl of unfortunate disposition, the girl to be avoided.  But, as a rule, the quicker the temper the sooner over; and the girl with the spirited disposition is the one who is the nicest in the long run. 

 

“Affectionate girls can always be told by the mouth.  The lips never stay together, but they are always parted or ready to part. 

 

“The affectionate girl is the emotional girl.  She always has her sympathies on tap, and she can weep with you as readily as she can laugh.  Her lips, which lie in a curve half parted, will reveal all the emotions of her soul and at very short notice.

 

“The round, soft-chinned girl is the girl to choose for a wife.  The woman who has no chin at all, or at least a sloping chin, is not the woman who would make a good helpmate.  She would have no self-control whatever, and would fall victim to every temptation that beset her pathway.

 

“The weak-chinned woman is the woman who becomes addicted to alcoholism, who takes smoking and to the minor vices of women.  And it is the weak-chinned woman who goes far beyond her husband’s income and cannot resist doing so again and again.

 

“The weak-chinned woman is not vicious, but just weak.  There are a great many estimable women who have no chin to speak of, but they are estimable only because they have never been tempted to be otherwise.

 

“Quite the opposite is the woman with the prominent chin.  Here is the woman who knows a thing or two, and does not hesitate to tell you so.  She absolutely rules the household roost.

 

“The amiable woman has a rounding chin, just chin enough and no more than enough.  It may be a single chin, or its may be a double chin.  But its type is unmistakable. 

 

“This desirable type of chin is curved, and sometimes dimpled.  It is rather wide, far from pointed, and it gradually broadens into full happy cheeks.

 

”The beautiful type of chin may not belong to the beautiful type of face, for a pretty chin does not make a pretty woman.  But it is one of the straws which show which way the wind is blowing.

 

“The eye reveals character, but unfortunately not so clearly as the other features, while the contrary is supposed to be true.

 

“People are too much influenced by the color of the eye, which is, after all, no guide, and they are too much influenced by the size and the luster, whereas neither is any indication whatever of  character.

 

“Character is revealed in the eyes by the expression, by the softness or by the hardness, by the glow, by the appeal, by the way of looking at you.

 

“There are people who cannot look you full in the eye, and these are the people who are not frank, the people whose strategy, whose duplicity, whose methods and whose means are not the best in the world. 

 

“Dark eyes are supposed to belong to the best type of soul.  But this, also, is a fallacy.  Dark eyes are more expressive than light eyes.  They are more capable of showing the emotions, they can say more than light eyes.  But they do not denote any clearer, better character.

 

“On the contrary, there are many people who argue wholly in favor of the light-eyed person, and say that blue eyes are true eyes, and that black eyes and brown eyes are full of duplicity.

 

“If you are going to read character by the face, do not forget to read the complexion.  The skin is a wonderful index of the state of the body, and consequently of the habits and disposition of the body. 

 

“The skin of a dyspeptic is sallow.  The skin of a morbid person, troubled with the liver, is a greenish yellow, going into saffron.  The skin of a woman who is lazy will be mottled. 

 

“Ill temper affects the circulation of the blood; it sends the quick rush to the head; it paralyzes the nerves of the skin and makes the hands and head hot and the feet cold.

 

“Women are more affected by ill temper than they suppose, and a great many colds are caused by bad circulation, which in turn is caused by an attack of bad temper.

 

“The skin that is perfectly clear and pretty almost always belongs to the good natured woman, and a pair of bright, pretty red cheeks are almost always the property of the girl with a sunny disposition. 

 

“It is said that an ill-tempered woman cannot have a nice complexion.  Certainly her chances are much better if she will govern her temper, guard her tongue, and try in every possible way to remain equally balanced through the trying scenes of life.

 

“The contour of a woman’s face, while set to a certain degree by nature, is not arbitrarily fixed.  She can influence it in every case, and absolutely alter it in a great many cases.

 

“The forehead, which is such an index of character, can be kept free from lines.  It can be made smooth by massage and kept smooth by care.  It is one of the features which show very plainly the disposition of the owner, and the feature which, more than any others, first displays the mark of age and ill temper.”

WR  Dec. 12, 1903

 

 

 

It has been said that the strongest human instinct is to impart information. That was just as true one-hundred and fifty years ago when the only means of imparting information was the printed word and the lecture hall,  as it is now when we find the entire” media” predicated on that principle.  Ann Landers, Dear Abby, Dr. Phil, and their like, could not exist without the desire to share information and/or advice. 

 

 

Chapter 10

TAKE MY ADVICE ONE LAST TIME

 

Trust not to uncertain riches, but prepare yourselves for every emergency of life.  Learn to work and be not dependent on servants to make your bread, sweep your floors and darn your stockings.  Above all, do not esteem too highly these honorable young men who sustain themselves and their aged parents by the work of their own hands, while you caress and receive into your company those lazy popin-jays who appear to help themselves as long as they can keep soul and body together, and get funds to live in fashion. If you are wise, you will look at this subject as we do, and when you are old enough to become wise, you will prefer an honest mechanic with not one cent to commence life, to the fashionable loafer with a capital of ten thousand dollars.  Whenever we hear remarked, “Such a lady has married a fortune”, we tremble for her future prosperity.  Riches left to children by wealthy parents turn out to be a curse instead of a blessing.  Young women, remember this, instead of sounding the purse of your lovers and examining the cut of their coats, look into t heir habits and their hearts, mark if they have any trades and depend upon themselves -- See that they have minds which will look above a butterfly existence.  Talk not of the beautiful white skin, and the soft delicate hand and the splendid form and fine appearance of a young gentleman.

                                                                                                       1851

 

 

Ladies, why don’t you go out in the open air and warm sunshine, and add luster to your eyes, bloom to your cheeks, elasticity to your steps and vigor to your frame?

 

Take early morning exercises -- let loose your corset strings, run up a hill for a wager, and down again for fun.  Roam in the fields, climb the fences, leap the ditches, wade the brooks, and go home wit h an excellent appetite.   Liberty thus exercised and enjoyed, will render you healthy, blooming and beautiful -- as lovely as the Graces and prolific as Deverra.  The buxom, bright eyed, rosy cheeked, full breasted, bounding lass -- who can darn a stocking, mend trousers, make her own frocks, command a regiment of pots and kettles, feed the pigs, milk the cows, and be a lady withal in company -- is just the sort of girl for any worthy young man to marry.   In truth, what you need is more liberty and less fashionable restraint -- more kitchen and less parlor -- more leg exercise and less sofa -- more pudding and less piano -- more frankness and less mock modesty -- more corned beef and less corsets -- more breakfast and less bishop.  Loosen yourselves a little.  Breathe the pure atmosphere of freedom, and become something nearly as lovely and beautiful as the God of nature designed.

                                                                                                       1851

 

 

The most proper age for entering the holy bonds of matrimony has been discussed but never settled.  I am entitled to my opinions; and although I cannot here give the grounds on which it rests, the reader may take it for granted, that I could adduce were this the proper place, a great number of reasons, both moral and physical, for the dogma I am about to propound.  The maxim which I would inculcate, is this -- that matrimony should not be contracted before the first year of the fourth septenniad, on the part of females, nor before the last year of the same in the case of the male; in other words, the female should be at least 21, and the male 28 years old.  That there should be seven years difference between the ages of the sexes, at whatever period of life the solemn contract is entered upon, need not be urged, as it is universally admitted there is a difference of seven years, not in the actual duration of life in the two sexes, but in the stamina of the constitution -- the symmetry of the form, and the lineaments of the face.

                                                                                                       1852

 

 

Women, young women, either believe falsely or judge harshly of men in one thing.  You, young loving creature, who dream of your lover by night and by day -- you fancy he does the same of you?  He does not—he cannot; nor is it right he should.  One hour, perhaps, your presence has captivated him, subdued him even to weakness, the next he will be in the world, working his way as a man among men, forgetting for the time being, your very existence.  Possibly if you saw him, his outer self hard and stern, so different to the self you know, would strike you with pain.  Or else his inner and diviner self, higher than you dream of, would turn coldly from your insignificant love.  Yet all this must be; you have no right to murmur.  You cannot rule a man’s soul -- no women ever did -- except by holding unworthy sway over unworthy passions.  Be content if you lie in his heart as that heart lies in his bosom -- deep and calm -- his beating unseen, uncounted, often times unfelt; but still giving life to his whole being.

                                                                                                       1852

 

 

Going to bed we have always considered one of the most sober, serious and solemn operations which a man can be engaged in during the whole twenty-four hours.  With a young lady it is altogether a different thing.  When bedtime arrives, she trips upstairs with a candle in her hand,--if she has had pleasant company during the evening—with some agreeable ideas in her head.  The candle on the toilet; her luxuriant hair is speedily emancipated from the thralldom of cobs and pins.  If she usually wears “water curls,” or uses the “iron,” her hair is brushed carefully from her forehead, and the whole mass compactly secured; if not, why then her lovely tresses are soon hid in innumerable bits of paper.  This task accomplished, a nightcap appears, edged, maybe, with plain muslin, or maybe with levy lace which hides all, save her own sweet countenance.  As soon as she ties the strings, probably takes a peep in her glass, and half smiles and half blushes at what she sees--.  The light is out—her fair, delicate form gently presses the couch—and, like a dear, innocent, lovely creature, she is, and she falls gently into sleep, with a sweet smile on her still sweeter face.

 

A man, of course, under the same circumstances, acts quite differently.—Every moment in his chamber indicates the coarse, rough mould of his sullen nature.—When all is ready, he snuffs the candle out with his fingers, like a cannibal, and then jumps into bed like a savage.  For a few moments he thinks of all the peccadilloes he may have committed during the day—vows a vow to amend soon—groans, turns over, stretches himself, and then all is silent save the heavy breathing of the slumberer.

                                                                                                       1853

 

 

No wise young woman will marry a man who treats either his mother or sister with disrespect or neglect.  No one man in a hundred of that class will make even a decent husband.  Poverty is not a bar to marriage, but meanness or drunkenness or laziness, or the lack of virtues first mentioned, is, which neither good looks nor money nor family connections should be allowed to influence.

                                                                                                       1884

 

 

Don’t snub a boy because he wears shabby clothes.  When Edison, the inventor of the telephone, (sic) first entered Boston, he wore a pair of yellow linen breeches in the depth of winter

 

            Don’t snub a boy because his home is plain and unpretending. 

Abraham Lincoln’s early home was a log cabin.

            Don’t snub a boy because of a dullness in his lessons.  Hogarth, the

celebrated painter and engraver, was a stupid boy at his books.

            Don’t snub a boy because of the ignorance of his parents.  Shakespeare,

the world’s poet was the son of a man who was unable to write

his own name.

            Don’t snub a boy because he chooses a humble trade.  The author

of Pilgrim’s Progress” was a tinker.

            Don’t snub a boy because of physical disabilities. Milton was blind.

            Don’t snub a boy because he stutters.  Demosthenes, the great

orator of Greece, overcame a harsh and stammering voice.

                                                                                                                        1887

 

The Kiss Perfected

 

            Mrs. Langtry has invented a kiss that double discounts anything of the kind ever attempted by Emma Abbot.  In a memorable scene of one production, Mrs. Langtry, playing the part of Lady Clancarty, finds her husband has escaped from his pursuers through an open window into her room.

 

            She stands with her back to the audience clear down the stage, near the footlights.  The husband looks at her a moment and then rushes wildly into her arms.  The both swing around and expose their profiles to the audience.  Then they hold each other at arms length.  Then her bosom heaves and he pants.  Then her head falls upon his breast, reclining backward.  There is a crimson blush suffusing her charming face.  Then he looks down at her, and she looks up at him.  Then there is a perceptible pressure around the waist.  Then he suddenly places his lips to hers.  Then she clasps him around the head.  Then there is a soft, gurgling sound, as of water escaping from a kitchen sink.  Then they are, as it were, glued together.  Then all is still.

 

            Women in the audience become nervous.  Bald-headed men are paralyzed.  Men around town have their watches out timing this.  One second, two, three, four, five, six, seven -- and then there is an explosion, as if the bung had blown out of a beer barrel.     It is all over.

 

            That is the Langtry kiss.

                                                                                                                        1889

 

 

            It is the custom of nearly every young girl to sit on the floor while putting on her shoes.  Indeed, many women keep up the habit to middle-age, though full-fledged womanhood not infrequently displays such embonpoint as would make such a course difficult.  Even in the case of a stout woman, according to the statement of an English physician, sitting on the floor is advisable as giving exercise such as those of portly dimensions are much in need.  The medical man asserts that a position on the floor or ground is more natural than that occupied while using a chair.  “It was once general with the human race,” says he, “and should therefore be very healthy.  The exercise of getting up and down is beneficial, as its very apt to produce strong back and thigh muscles.  Turks, tailors and shoe-makers are examples of this fact.  If you sit on the floor you can change your attitude as often as you please and can enjoy a variety of poses, as no matter how you may alter it, there is never any danger of falling off.  The influx of visitors need never cause anxiety to the well-constructed mind.  All you have to do is to provide comfortable cushions of every size and shape and when a favored friend comes in, just roll off your own and present it to them as the greatest possible compliment. 

1899

 

 

Robert Louis Stevenson wrote:

            The world is so full of a number of things

            I’m sure we should all be as happy as kings.

                           Although he may have been mistaken in assuming that kings are happy,

no one will contest his view that the world is full of a number of things.

                           And who better than the newspapers of the day could bring that to the

 attention of the masses?

 

 

CHAPTER 11

FOR YOUR INFORMATION

 

 

            “What has become of the ‘blonde’?  Well, I’ll tell you,” said a young lady the other day.  “You see it isn’t fashionable any more.  We used to think that golden hair was beautiful and poetical, and all that, but there got to be so much of it, and so much of it wasn’t golden, but straw color that all the beauty and poetry has fled.  It’s lot of trouble, too, unless you are adept at the art of “blonding” the color will get on in streaks so that anyone can see what is the matter with it.  But the worst of all is when one desires to quit the use of ‘blondine’ and let the natural color of the hair come back. It can’t be done.  It is very easy to color the hair, but is a different thing to uncolor it.  If you remember a few years ago when it was all the rage, my hair was as yellow as anybody’s.  Well, I’m getting it back to its old color now, and you can rest assured I’ll never meddle with it again -- not if it is 1,000 times the fashions.”

 

            “Is all the golden hair we see artificial?”  was asked.

 

            “There may be some that is natural, but very little.  I don’t know of any myself.  Why, even the natural blonds use regular blondine material to make it brighter -- so they’re only “bleached” blondes after all.”

 

            This seemed to be the opinion of all the young ladies questioned on the subject, and most of them spoke from experience.

 

            They were nearly all recovering, or trying to recover from what they frankly termed their folly, and spoke with undisguised contempt of the “bleached blondes” as a class, although considerable pity was expressed for individual victims of the “fad.”  The writer had the good fortune to attend an experience meeting, in which the narrators had no hesitancy in speaking freely of the facts of the matter.

 

            “I was yet a schoolgirl,” said the young lady, “when I first began to use blondine.  I learned somehow or other that by mixing 10 cents worth of peroxide of hydrogen and a nickel’s worth of ammonia I could obtain a preparation that would turn my hair from the dark brown that it was to a lovely blonde.  All the girls wanted to be blondes then, and I decided to effect the transformation if possible.  I bought the ingredients, made the necessary preparation and applied it secretly.  It worked like a charm.  After a few applications I was an object of envy to every girl in school, and hundreds were the prayers and entreaties I received from my friends to let them into the secret.  I presume I taught about 100 the art, and I was looked upon by all as a sort of benefactor and received their warmest thanks.  The most of them have found out what fools we all were, and I guess they are now ready to shower anything but blessings on my head.  Of course, I didn’t know what the result was going to be, or I certainly wouldn’t  have suffered so much myself.

 

            “I learned from experience,” said the young lady who acted as teacher, ”and I gave the others points as they came to me.  The first thing to do was to prepare the compound of peroxide of hydrogen and ammonia.  We usually made this a finger-bowl.  The girl who was to be operated on took her seat in the straight-backed chair, so placed that the light would fall on her hair properly.  The hair was then carefully washed and combed out straight and thoroughly dried.  Much of the success of the experiment depended on the preliminary steps.   The next thing was to put on the ‘blondine.’  This should be done with a tooth brush.  Some lazy people use a hair brush, but the application can’t be made properly that way.  Others simply wash the head in a bowl of the mixture.  This is the most slovenly way of all, and any one can detect the sham when it is done that way.  The color gets on in streaks and a sickly greenish tinge is given that is perfectly hideous.  The toothbrush, though, does not work thoroughly.  With it the hair is gone over carefully, furrow by furrow, from the roots to the tip.  This is the only way to do it artistically  It’s a little tedhous (Sic) but then, you know, there is no use in doing it at all unless you’re going to do it right.  After the hair has been once blondined, the work doesn’t end there by any means.  The hair must be washed twice a week; it should be done every morning.  Blondined hair gets dirty very easily, and nothing looks so ugly as when it gets into that condition.  The only way to prevent this is to wash it, and, of course, when this is done so frequently the natural oil of the hair becomes stiff and harsh, and it is very difficult to give it a natural gloss.

 

            “Another important thing to be observed is to get the right shade.  A girl who is naturally inclined to be a blonde need only make one application, but six or seven are required to change a good brown to blonde.  Then, too, as the hair grows, it must be constantly touched up at the roots.  If it isn’t, the appearance of a dirty scalp is given.  When a number of applications have to be made, it is necessary to dry after each one.  After a certain limit is reached it gradually has no further effect.”

 

            “But you know,” said the society lady, breaking in, “peroxide of hydrogen and ammonia is not the best blondine by any means.  The best blondine is champagne, and the best of all the good times I ever had I think I have had the most fun at a champagne blonding party.  The blondine sold by hair dealers and dyers is usually a champagne solution.  It’s rather too expensive for most girls’ pin money, and I have never attended more than two or three such parties.  But they have lots of fun, I can tell you.  You see, you have to drink the champagne that is left to keep it from spoiling -- just imagine!”

 

            “If the peroxide of hydrogen and ammonia mixture is used, and that is what most of us have to use who can’t afford the champagne,” said one, “there is no doubt but what the brain will be affected in time.  There is Miss ____________; nothing else under the sun killed her but that.  Of course her family kept the cause secret as it could, but the physician knew what was the matter with her well enough.  Her death was what scared me into stopping.”

 

            After a person has once used blondine the only way to get rid of it effectually is just to let the hair grow out and cut off the old, dead stuff, and that requires a great deal of patience.

 

            “Sage tea might have a little effect,” said the one who had first spoken.  “You know it’s quite the thing now to have heavy, rich, gloss, dark brown hair, and almost as many women use sage tea now as formerly used blondine.  It was first used by persons with dirty brown hair, but now others apply it, too. The tea is made tolerably strong and applied as a wash without soap.  It is said to be good for the scalp.  The hairs get darker with each application but never “dead black.”

 

            Another fashion is now much in vogue among servant girls, it is said.  By the use of beer straight hair can be made as pretty and kinky as any head of hair you ever saw.

                                                                                                                        18--

 

 

A curious anomaly has just come to light in Louisiana.  The late constitutional convention gave tax-paying women the right to vote upon all questions submitted to taxpayers.  It added a clause, unique in the suffrage laws of the country, that any woman who did not wish to go to the polls herself might give proxy to some one else to cast her vote for her.  This was done out of chivalrous regard for the women, who, it was thought, might shrink from contact with the polls.  New Orleans is preparing to hold its first election under the new law, to decide upon a tax levy for sewerage and drainage.  An examination of the assessors’ books reveals that there are more than 10,000 tax-paying women in New Orleans, and the mayor, the city council, the president of the city board of health and other civic dignitaries have been eloquently urging women to vote in favor of better sanitation for their homes.  Some of the women thought they would rather vote by proxy; and this has brought to light the anomaly in question.  If a woman gives a certificate to a proxy to vote for her the certificate must be signed by two competent witnesses.   Many New Orleans women are now finding out for the first time that by Louisiana law, which is based on the old law of France, a woman is not a competent witness to a legal document.  In Louisiana tax-paying women may vote on the expenditure of their taxes, and in this way are in advance of all the northern and eastern states.  But while a woman may be a voter as proxy for another woman she is not legally competent to witness the signing of the certificate.

                                                                                                                        1899

 

 

            Let us preserve every influence which tends to enable and enrich life, and increase rather than diminish their force.  Let us encourage the education of our sex along womanly lines, and give to our race and the world the benefit of the bright and active minds, as well as the tender and sympathetic hearts, with which God has endowed the better half of his creation.

                          JULIA E. MUNRO                                                                            1898

 

 

A Souther

 

IT’S A  MAN’S WORLD

 

 

      On the preceding pages we have attempted to reveal to the unaware just what life is like for the average girl; especially for the unmarried girl.  Our remarks may seem unkind, harsh, and biased, but we feel one’s eyes must be open to reality before putting one’s entire future into the hands of another. 

 

      Whoever it was that said love is blind, spoke an eternal truth.  The young, inexperienced girl sees in marriage what she wants to see and tends to ignore all the unpleasant evidence which tends to paint a different picture.  The reader must keep in mind that this is still a man’s world.  Granted, the man of the house is invariably bequeathed the position of the wage-earner which means he has the full responsibility to be the sole financial provider for the family.  All too often, we have attempted to point out, “the head of the family”, “the man of the house” interprets his responsibilities as license to make unreasonable demands on his family.  It too often brings about marital disharmony and changes the eager, expectant bride into a disillusioned, bitter person.

 

      Despite what some would-be philosophers may contend, ultimately the distaff side of the marriage team has an arsenal of weapons at her command which, if used with love, can steer the relationship on the right, the pleasant course.

 

      The reader is invited to sift and winnow the suggestions here presented, and employ those which are apropos to her life, always bearing in mind that reality is rarely as idyllic as young  hopes and dreams would have us conclude.

 

      In spite of all our progress, it is still a man’s world.

 

HUSBAND -- THE DOMESTIC TYRANT

 

            Picture to yourself a man of family.  He provides a home for them, he sends the children to school; perhaps—perhaps—he makes his wife an allowance, though this he does not consider incumbent.

 

            All these things he accounts unto himself for righteousness and on his balance sheet he jots them down in a large clear hand to his credit.  This done, he closes the book of self-esteem and opens the tome of the law of man.  Now these laws are few and brief, but very much to the point, and he lives by them to the letter.  The first say:  “In thine own house    thou art IT, and no one shall gainsay thee in any way or for any reason; and the second and the third, even unto the fifth law, are like unto the first”.  When the man closes his book he is read for anything.

 

            He may make himself as absolutely disagreeable as he pleases, and because he has provided food and raiment, and because he is the Whole Thing, nobody may gainsay him.

 

            He may find fault with the housekeeping and the housekeeper, he may rail at the expense of running such an establishment, he may storm at the bills, at the cost of schooling, at the number of eggs consumed daily;  he may make meal times so uncomfortable that his children are crippled with indigestion for want of the good sauce of laughter and banter with their food, and yet, because he is the father of the family and head of the house,  his ill temper must be borne in silence and with the utmost patience.

 

      The domestic tyrant is the Grand Mogul and the Great Panjandrum in one.  There is no appeal from his dictates.  He lays down the law and exacts obedience.  He is the autocrat of the breakfast, dinner and supper table, and it doesn’t make the fillip of a finger’s difference to him that his wife’s aunt or his daughter’s suitor are guests at his festive board a long as he  has the floor and can listen to the  tempestuous sound of his own voice, laying down the law. 

 

     It is impossible to argue with him since he is always in the right.  If the smallest contrary opinion lifts its timid voice he is ready to exclaim, like the Queen in Alice, “Off with its head!”

 

     His pathway is strewn with heartaches and wounded feelings and sprinkled with briny tears of the feminine portion of his family, who are so unceremoniously thrust out of his consideration.

 

     He doesn’t drink, he doesn’t gamble, perhaps he doesn’t even smoke. 

 

     He boasts that he has none of the small vices,  yet he will ruthlessly and brusquely correct his wife before her table guest, and wither her with sarcasm; while his children learn to dread the sound of his footfall, and sigh with relief when the door shuts behind him.

 

     This is not the picture of one man, but a composite photograph of many men who have the reputation of being good husbands and fathers, and whose absolute cruelty is only known to those of their immediate households.

 

     --Caroline Ryland in Richmond News Leader,     WR  Dec. 12, 1903